DE's, SE's, and injectors. I made properly sized holes in a piece of 1/2" thick ply-board. Covered it with felt. Now the heads are halfway in the holes which makes them stand up nicely on their sides.
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DE's, SE's, and injectors. I made properly sized holes in a piece of 1/2" thick ply-board. Covered it with felt. Now the heads are halfway in the holes which makes them stand up nicely on their sides.
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Id still like to find an original R41, but folks just dont like parting with them.
I have all the Gillette DEs made on my birth quarter, 2 SEs, and all the injectors that are easy to find. None of them expensive injectors or DEs. And yes, they all get used.
I have some Port Staves from The Balvenie Distillery, Speyside. They are made from French Oak and would be nice for scales if i can get the red Port soaked area showing. In the meantime i decided to take one and create a holder for my Swiss made Needle files.
It turned out pretty good.
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There is a company near me that supplies wineries with French oak barrels. When the wineries are done with them (they only use them once), the owner has another business that converts the staves into tea light candle holders and the tops and bottoms into cheese trays. I have found that he is willing to let me have as many of his off-cuts as I can get from his burn pile (seems like such a waste).
These pieces are from barrels that have held red wine for several years. I have some that are long enough to cut scales for razors, and have found that the not-so-good pieces are great for barbecue and smoking of meat.
How do you finish yours? Does the impregnated wine residue cause a problem?
Took the scales off the W&B FBU. Details at 11:00
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One thing though I just barely noticed on the inside. Anyone ever see this before?
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WS on the inside of the scale, looks like it must be stamped and not scribed from the precision of the letters.
Yeah I thought that same thing that it could be SM too But usually with stamps the outer legs of the M will go straight up where a W is normally more at a slant. Plus the one loop of the S is smaller which would normally be the top loop. Trust me, I labored over that longer than what seems sensible But it is still an educated guess that that is WS.
I wasn't sure what it stood for, I've just never seen that before. I wondered if it was the maker or possibly for a company designation If they were made by a contract company. Or maybe it was a style designation.