You might try soaking them in 30% peroxide, then wipe down with mineral oil, when done and dry.
The mineral oil will take the dry, brittleness, out of the bone, and give it new life.
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You might try soaking them in 30% peroxide, then wipe down with mineral oil, when done and dry.
The mineral oil will take the dry, brittleness, out of the bone, and give it new life.
You can use the drug store variety of peroxide as well, you will just have to soak them foe several days. I have have vintage bone scales that someone had coated with some sort of clear coating. It was very thin and a light sanding with 1K grit wet removed it.
Beauty Supply houses sell a pretty powerful hydrogen peroxide that works in minutes, but household hydrogen peroxide can be used but it takes far longer.
I'd give that a go and see what happens.
You could try some light sanding. I’ve removed stains from both bone and ivory by sanding.
I spent the afternoon refreshing the Lakeside Cutlery and the Shumate. Looking at them through a loupe I decided to start with the Norton 4k and then advance to the 8k, the hard Arkansas, and finish with the translucent Arkansas stropping between each stone progression. Test shave tonight on Grampa's Lakeside was a super treat. No nicks, cuts, razor burn or tugging. I wish "Pa" was alive to take his old razor for a spin.
Do you know what the smudge is?Quote:
Originally Posted by jmabuse
If it is related to iron and rust...
Bar Keepers Friend® Cleanser & Polish might help.
It has a small amount of oxalic acid that can bleach out iron.
Oxalic acid is used by woodworkers to bleach some oak of the natural iron stain.
My gut is to oil or seal then polish and enjoy the reality that
natural materials have character.
What's your guys favorite method for splitting horn blanks? I have 4 blanks, 3/8 thick, 6in long and 1.5 in wide iirc. I should be able to get 16 scales if I see this right and don't screw up. I'm thinking band saw if it fits.ir hand saw.
Once you allow for kerf you are only going to be able to split those once. My preferred method on pieces of that size horn or hard wood is a bandsaw. There are those amongst us that have the skill to split those with a hand saw, I do not happen to be one of those people.
While I've never attempted what you want to achieve/ Like Rez said, a band saw is going to have the least kerf so the less loss. Hand saws have a much wider kerf.
The problem I envision is keeping the blanks square to the fence and not having any wobble. You don't have a lot of play as the scales are .375 and I'd figure that the kerf is going to be .0625 so that leaves you with .15625 thick scales (which is 5/32nds/before sanding down to 1/8").
I hope you get the results that you are looking for.
Shaun I'm only going to split the scale once, you are correct, split the 3/8 in half then the width in half so 4 blanks split 4 ways should yield 16 scales. If I don't screw up.
I have the same band saw as you Roy, I'm certainly hoping it works. I'd like to get as much as possible. Thought about a coping saw too but I never seem to cut straight with those :)
How I set up my bandsaw is to figure out the drift on the blade and then adjust the angle of the fence to match the drift, run a few test pieces. To figure out the drift take a soap piece of wood of similar width to your scales, mark a line on it and get it to go through ice and straight. Stop the saw and mark the angle that you have to push the wood through to make a straight cut, on the table top. Set your fence at that angle and how thick you want your horn cut and run a test piece of wood. If the angle matches the drift of the blade you can just push it through with no wobbles.
Google ‘pull saws’ Eric. Wider than a coping saw and very thin kerf.
Done a few red dyed horn scales by hand with one. In my experience it was more effective than a scroll saw at splitting horn stock. Bandsaw should work if you can keep your blank well supported and square to the fence.
Good luck..
If you go with 'our' bandsaw. While this is set up for a table saw, I'm thinking that you'll need one of these to help keep the blank flush to the fence. You could simply use C-clamps to hold it in place.
Attachment 281194
Or maybe sandwich the blank between two squared up wood scraps using hot melt glue.
Give you something to hold on to during the cut.
:hmmm:
I guess 8 went to a different kind of school for math but im only seeing 4 scales out of that size of material. If im wrong it wont be the first time. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it goes.
Some deep pits under some small areas of rust. A bit of 600 greaseless and a lot of 320 wet/dry.
Ain't going to get all of it. Gonna take a while.
Attachment 281195
I HATE sanding razors. New year's resolution....No more rusty razors.:nono:
Got 1 blank cut, 4 scale blanks. Get 2 sets of scales from each blank or 16 scales. I kept saying 16 scales meaning 8 sets. Band saw does well and is what I used in the past just don't want to miss out on an opportunity for new learning.
As Crocodile Dundee might have said--"Ats not rust----now thats's rust"Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
Attachment 281198
Oh DUDE! That's a Henry Sears Queen!Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
You simply MUST restore that! :D
Did the best I could with what knowledge and equipment I had at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...n-cleanup.html
HAR! I missed that! A Miracle, that! :D
Tomorrow to do a bit of 1000 lengthwise and start on the 400.
I usually go to 600 and then 1000 on this type of stuff.
Then, I take the worn-out paper and go down through again.
Perhaps some Croox, WD40 with crocus cloth.
Then there's always the diamond paste frost job!
Best it gets! :rofl2:
Actually I DID see that! My like is on it.
There goes another wrinkle!
Well they do say that the memory is the first thing to go! :wQuote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I reckon it's going, all right! :(
It WAS 2013, however! ;)
Way to go at it, Tom! You'll have it in top shape before too long, it's already looking really good. I've been doing some hand sanding too, but then it's well known I'm a glutton for that particular flavor of punishment!
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaotuzi
Problem is....I am at that place where it looked better before I began!
Hate that! :roflmao
Hafta keep going now or it's almost like you might as well have not even started. I can identify with that, thinking to myself "what kind of commitment did I get myself into?" It will be worth it, that blade is sweet!
I suppose so. It's so thin, I have gone as far as I want to.
Just some light, progressive sanding to get it smooth again.
Doing my best to avoid the stabilizer, belly, and spine. Meh.
I think it will be easier to do with the finer grits...
I am going to do a wedge next time! :D
Sounds good, a good idea to be careful with the thin ones. What good is a blade if it's sanded into tin foil? There is a when to say when. Are you getting this one ready for a New Year's shave perhaps?
Perhaps by 2019! :rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaotuzi
Something from the 1700s
This one's been laying in the drawer for over a year, maybe two. Figured it was time to see if I could breathe life back into it. hehe.!
Attachment 281289
Attachment 281290
Attachment 281291
I consider the blade in excellent condition for its age, as well as the scales, but the backside scale has been badly bug bitten, almost in half, near the wedge.
Attachment 281292
Attachment 281293
Attachment 281294
Attachment 281295
Oh now! Outback Mike will fix those scales. No sweat! :tu
I've cleaned and flattened the scales, made all repairs with CA and ground Bakelite, and have them soaking in Neats Foot oil while sitting on top of the furnace.
Attachment 281296
Attachment 281297
Attachment 281298
Attachment 281299
Attachment 281300
Way to go, Mike! Something like that needs to stay all-original!
Sanded on this old Henckels about 5 hours today. Looks allright from a running horse.
I suck at this. Next will be some blade bling, a trip across the buffer.
Scratches and crap galore. I totally suck at this. Seems I do good on old, soft stuff.
These hard Germans...Oh well. It's an old razor. At least it is clean and rust-free.
I am confident that I did not screw it up geometry-wise.
Attachment 281301
Nothing's perfect. Can't be. Not possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
If your not happy with it, I'll take good care of it. :deal:
Well...there's always, Tuzi's hand work.
Ya, Mike. I dislike perfect things. Hard to keep them that way.
Still, I try for some reason.
I have noticed that Tuzi keeps to the old wedges....Smart!
It's polish the scales, pin it up, and hit the hones! :D
That’s a beauty project Mike. Scales are looking good.
That Henckel turned out just fine Tom. Saving the geometry while still cleaning it up, ,,
Dats da goal.
:tu
You do some incredible repairs on scales, Mike. Sheesh! I notice those have that odd "hidden" pin in the on the wedge end. I've had one or two with that, still don't know the purpose. That blade is in great shape for it's age, usually you see them honed so much the heel end dips way in.
Tom, that razor is looking great! I can't see anything wrong with it, we are our own harshest critics. Yeah, I do a lot of thicker blades for heavy restorations but I still do a good share of thinner grinds too. Just can't take away much steel from the thinner ones, I get nervous of it! And like B52 said, integrity of the geometry is key. And usually the tale of that will be told in the bevel.
Mike and Tom those nice blades and you gents are doing them justice. Keep up the good work!
