That's my plan. Also going to be doing some reading and video watching.
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That's my plan. Also going to be doing some reading and video watching.
I found it very confusing to watch multiple peoples videos while trying to learn, because there is so many slight differences in technique and theory, so when I got serious I watched Glens videos only, until I could get consistent results. So my take away on that was pic your favourite presenter and stick with that one series.
Been there Shaun. It can make thing not go as well as they should.
I will be finishing up this one in the next day or two: Ocean Silver Steel in Inlace Acrylester "The Abyss" (my wife picked it out from among their pages and pages of patterns). Black acrylic wedge and silver hardware:
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I got the blanks months ago after Roy posted a link to woodturningz.com. I sure hope he never posts a link to an expensive Rolex watch or something, as I seem to go down every rabbit hole he points out. Anyway, this stuff is super easy to work, a little softer and "gummier" than pure acrylic, so even though it's easy to cut, shape, sand and polish, it is also easy to scratch and melt edges on lower grits-a light touch is recommended.
Here ya go
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Thanks, but I'm sticking with my $30 Timex!
I really like my Momentum watch. However their customer service is ridiculous. I also had a Luminox watch that I liked, so I replace my Momentum with another Luminox.
https://shopluminox.ca/
AA Ron, what are those collars you have picked out?
It will be a beautiful setup once you get it all back together.
Sorry for my lousy phone pics, Shaun, but I think I'm going to go with the silver collars from our Romanian ebay supplier-a large one at the wedge and the small size at the pivot where I don't have the room for the big one.
I'm sort of going for a nautical/ocean depths theme here with the blue and black "The Abyss" pattern, the Ocean razor, wavy scale shape, etc. I get some weird aesthetic notions sometimes-we'll see if vision meets execution when this one is finished.:shrug:
I too have bought and used some of that scale material Aaron. Good stuff and sure has a nice look. And I recently made an order from Romania. They are very nice collars. It just takes a bit of time to make it here. Will be waiting to see it put together.
Here is a couple shorty's I did with the stuff.
Attachment 314538
Jerry you are spoiled by fast mail. Every package I get take a while. For example, it is nearly the same distance from Orangeville Ontario to me as it is from Orangeville to Houston Texas. It takes more than a week longer for a package to get to me from Orangeville. A package from Romania, it’s the same as all the others. Oddly enough the package I get in blinding speed are my packages from Japan.
:w https://www.woodturningz.com/2020_New_Years_Sale_Info :wQuote:
Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad
Good try, Roy-But after checking out the link (of course!), I realize that I probably have enough scale materials to do a few dozen razors, and am ready in any case to go back to woods for awhile after doing several different synthetics recently. What I need at this point is much more utilitarian stuff like buffing wheels, band-saw blades-boring stuff like that.
I am missing saw-dust and Tru-Oil. I better stay off of Cook Woods and some of my other favorite "wood porn" websites!:nono:
I just bought 8 new buffing wheels. Some horn for scale material would be nice to have in my stock drawer. Come-on Aaron, What are creditcards for. HA
Gawd it may be nice to get new tools. I have a mishmash of old crap.
My buffing wheels get better as they get smaller.
Seeing how I have a bench grinder for a polisher which turns twice as fast as I wish it would!
;)
Space is always my big challenge. I outgrew my space a very long time ago. Fingers crossed for a shop addition next summer.
Jerry-I just got some nice black horn blanks from Austin/AJkenne from his ebay store-a quick look today shows he still has some. As for credit cards, too dangerous. In any event, the lastest regimen I have put myself on is selling some razors and other gear to fill up my PayPal account so I can buy shop and razor supplies from there. The wife definitely approves, and it's working, sort of...Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
And Tom-Just keep hitting those buffing wheels with a wheel rake-freshens em right up (but you might want to stop when you get down to the arbor lol!).
I’m with you AA Ron, every dollar spent on interest is a dollar thrown into the wind. I too am trying to sell razors and stuff to keep moving forward.
I should try selling, but its so hard to sell what ive been collecting. I will give a look at the horn blanks Aaron.
And Tom, my buffer runs at grinder speed too. Your not alone. The wife told me that after she dies she gives me permission to build a shop behind the garage. But until then no more tools. I got them hanging on the walls and have to move cars out to use them.
Someday!
We are all goldfish and expand to occupy whatever space we haveQuote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Horn is dirt simple to work, comes in a variety of colors and can easily be done with hand tools. Cut with a fret saw, shape with a scraper, sand with 600 and 1k, buff with paper towel and good metal polish.
If you have a buffer, buff with Green stainless compound from a 600 or 1k finish. Slower buffers are a bit over-rated. I have both, you just have to learn your buffers limitations with compounds and pressure.
Rake your greased wheels often and clean the teeth on the rake with WD40 and toothbrush to remove old compound and swarf.
Trim your wheels with a sharp scissors, I buy dollar store scissors, store next to the buffer and replace them when they get dull. The threads slapping the scales, mar the finish. Also wipe the scales with a paper towel and WD40 then buff your final finish, it will produce a finer high gloss finish, works on steel too.
Finished cleaning J. Bingham. Now it remains to sharpen. Happy new year to all! Health, good luck, happiness and good razors!
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I've been tinkering with this for a while and finally got it together. It was ment to be a brush and razor stand for my wife. I based the dimensions from her razor, but didn't measure the brush. Turned out the brush was longer :gaah: So it became a his and hers razor stand (I'll make a separate brush stand next). The base and uprights I milled from a cherry root and the top was milled from a cherry branch. All of the wood is from a tree we planted in the front yard when we first moved into our house.
Attachment 314622
I've still got some gaps to fill in the joints, a bit of sanding, and some finish to complete. It's not perfect, but the wife is pleased with it and it's been a nice change of pace. Before you ask, the rainbow ti finished razor is not mine :D
According to CP, the dog sled from Orangeville is arriving in your town today Shaun.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Hope someone’s home.
:tu
Sent a Christmas package to a friend in Clearwater, BC using Canada Post on December 4. It got there Friday. Might’ve been faster by dogsled.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB52
There are people there!
I may have a visitor on New Years Day, so with a little luck I’ll see that before I get home on the 14th..
Not bad, you mailed it on the 11 Dec and there was the whole Christmas rush in the mix, and it is expedited so they use the faster dogs, but not the fastest dogs. I’ll be happy to have it in my hands. Thanks!
Made scales of oak for the blade Frederick Reynolds. I did it for the first time.The color is more similar to the first two photos. Attachment 314746Attachment 314747Attachment 314748Attachment 314749Attachment 314750Attachment 314751Attachment 314752
Looking good.
Bob
I like those long grains in scales. Well-done!
Hickory makes nice ones, FME.
Love the shape and that you got them pretty thin.
There are some great dyes and stains when used in concert, that can mimic the look of fumed white oak, ala Arts and Crafts styled finishes without fuming, even for Red Oak.
A fumed type finish would add a range of color to the scales.
Nice work.
Yes, thin. On the one hand, nobody likes logs on scales, on the other, it is very terrible to rivet. I was afraid for a month to come to this stage.
In any color did not paint Only processed 2 weeks daily with linseed oil. while the tree has not ceased to absorb.
The scales have already darkened, but they should darken even more. Linseed oil polymerizes well.
Nce job. You will soon have the scale making bug and be wanting to make them more than one at a time. Look out.
Thank you for the warning! ;) And for the praise!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
Indeed the oak scales are looking good for the reasons mentioned above. It you are afraid of breakage, there are a few things you can do to add strength. A little bit of very thin CA right in the pin holes will help bolster their strength. You can also use eyelet or rivet style collars that go through the scale and put the pressure on the wedge and tang. Like these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cut-throat-...wAAOxygo9Q6Vkq
Thank you for the link. And especially for the advice. CA is cyanoacrylate? Instant glue? Am I right? I was thinking of using diluted epoxy from the inside. But to strengthen a little the hole itself was not even a thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
A little hint, if your into wood. Try using,Tru Oil. Its a gunstock finish made by Birchwood & Casey.
Brings out the best in wood, and protects like no other.
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Good hint! Thanks! It looks very nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Yes cyanoacrylate is CA.
Also once you have done this, and typically from the inside out, you will have to clean the hole up a little.
I've been spending a fair amount of time working on my honing skills. I'm working through some test shaves and decided to get back to restoration with an easy one. A 5/8 Blackie 517 by Premier Cutlery Inc Germany with cream celluloid scales and a black wedge.
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Initially I thought I was going to unpin this one and re-blue the tang, but after a little soap/water/toothbrush I changed my mind. It was really pretty clean and the bluing was in decent shape. Pins had good tension, no warp in the scales, and it centered nicely when closing. I cleaned up the blued tang with WD40 and 0000 steel wool. Some 3M marine polish with steel wool and Mass took care of the blade faces. Dry steel wool, simichrome, and Mass polish took care of the scales. A little dental floss to make sure the pivot area was clean and it's ready for the stones. It looks to have been barely used so hopefully no drama when I start setting a bevel.
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I think I'll mute that spike tip a little just to make shaving a little easier.
Today i made some horn scales, they are like glass. Taken from this big piece of horn.
The blade (Joseph Rodgers) is ready, im just waiting on the lined wedge :)
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