:rofl2:never know when you might want to do a little remodeling:roflmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by dinnermint
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:rofl2:never know when you might want to do a little remodeling:roflmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by dinnermint
I’ve used a chainsaw for renovations on more than one occasion, and they are great tools for demolition.
Be careful with that one Tom! The torque is much greater than a gas one and will do much more damage if it gets a hold on you. Good Luck! It looks great!Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I hear you! It's got one speed.....Full-on! :eek:
Green wood just off the mill is the only reason i have found for an electric saw.
I took this Genco Wedge out of its busted scales, and went at the blade with some 3M Marine Polish, steel wool and elbow grease in my knife vise to see what lay under the tarnish and minor rust.
Attachment 317090
Attachment 317091
It was forming an edge/bevel after just a few passes, so assuming I can get past some of the swiss cheese near the edge, I'm thinking about sanding it a bit to get out some of the pitting (though some of it seems pretty deep). Then take it to a satin finish, and re-blue/black the tang. I even had a crazy idea to black the whole thing-would that look awful? I've seen some really cool razors that are all-black.:shrug:
It seems like a very utilitarian razor, so I was thinking maybe black G10 scales and a simple white wedge? What do you guys think?
I just do the tang but dont listen to me I wear Hawaiian shirts all the time
Sounds good to me. It may not be as traditional, but you won't have to worry about warping or cracking so ...:rock:Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanQ
Just remember
Attachment 317099
I think that blue would look really cool. I've thought about doing some that way myself but I always wonder how that survives honing and, more importantly, stropping.
Paul-I've seen a number of blue or black razors-I think they look pretty cool. Obviously the bevel will be worn to steel, and I suppose the spine too unless you tape. If I try doing the whole blade, I'll probably try stropping on one of my cheaper strops until I see how much wears away. I'll post results when I do it, probably no time soon, as March Madness applies to more than just basketball!Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
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I would blacken/blue the tang and the spine but not the blade it self. Then strop it to see how the coloring along the spine lasts.
Just my 2¢ :)
I
I have darkened a few blades to make them look old, but never black. I think Randy’s idea has some serious merit. The nice thing about going with blue or black is that it does not penetrate far so undoing it should be fairly simple, like a good rub with polish and steel wool.
I missed the part about coating the entire blade. The style you mention is what I'm familiar with, although the finish on the spine is usually long gone!Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
I seem to remember seeing some straight razors with coated/plated blades, but I can't remember where I saw it. Or of it was cerakote or duracoat? Trying to find an example.
Some vintage razors had the tang blued and others the tang and top of the spine blued. If the blade was a spike/square point the bluing on the spine sometimes came down the front of the toe also. I don't know what the process used on vintage blades to do the bluing was but I have used cold bluing from gunsmithing suppliers to do the job. It is not as durable as hot bluing the firearms factory uses yet still does the job and is easy to redo if it starts to wear.
Bob
Bob, I've seen the spine, tang and front end bluing (though I seem to recall it being more black than blue?). I like your and Randy's idea. Not sure when I'll get it done-the 3-week tunnel to spring break will be intense-but hope to get to it soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
After a thorough, cleaning, do you just mask off the blade faces with tape, wax, or what? And doing some reading, I can't see me trying any kind of exotic chemical hot-bluing. I like what I read about Brownell Ox-Pho Professional Grade Cold Blue: https://www.amazon.com/Brownell-Oxph...%2C189&sr=8-11
I'll have to watch some videos, do some reading, and come back to it after some sanding. More later.
I blued an entire blade, well what was left of it after making a shorty project out of it.
Attachment 317114
And one I picked up, already blued from factory.
Attachment 317115
More of a forced patina, than blueing
IIRC I masked off what I did not want blued. It may take several coats of cold blue to get a deep dark blue/black hue. I have never used Brownell's cold bluing. I just used a 30 year old part bottle of liquid bluing I had kicking around from my shooting days. No matter what you use prepping the surface is key.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad
Bob
Any reason a Birchwood Casey blueing or black pen couldn't be used?
I'm trying to get some projects going. Practicing pinning so I can actually get the razors reassembled without fasteners! I usually only get a few minutes of work done at a time before I have to put everything back up, so it is slow going. I have some good scales I need to get blades for.
Whenever my 3yo daughter :angel: comes in our bedroom she will point to a tool that is still visible on a shelf or something and say, "I want to touch it!" I let her hold my peening hammer and my Rigid drill the other day and she got a kick out of that.:D
Have a set of scales where one shrank and the other didn't !:thinking:
Dad made me a Case fan growing up. When I was little, if you asked me who made good knives I would have said Case, Boker, and Henckels. I've got a Temperite blade I'm going to try and make scales for, that are similar to the original rotted ones. Whoever made those Temperite scales needs to do a recall.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
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.....and be sure to use an old strop/fabric/etc for testing in case some of that bluing comes off.
This Robeson Shuredge has a black hammered tang...
Attachment 317143
And this M. Jung No. 80 has the blue all the way up the tang and around the toe.
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Both of which I picked up NOS.
Going back to this post...
... and this very useful 'Strop 101' from @Euclid440...Quote:
Originally Posted by Montgomery
...here is where we are up to:Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Attachment 317148
I admit, it is not looking good... I fear the fault is partially or entirely mine, I started the hydrating process with what I had, which was dubbin, and I think this coated the strop and made it appear better than it was. I then started working the strop, and I think the dubbin again masked the cracking. Lesson learned...
For the past couple of months, I've been dampening the strop and applying neatsfoot periodically, and it now seems to be pretty flexible, though with the battle scars acquired on the way.
The question at this point is, to what extent can this be salvaged? I know I can sand the cracks to some extent, am I looking at a strop only good for penknifes? Only good for pasting? Or is the door to an ok strop still a tiny touch open?
Many thanks!
Took a couple days to myself, and cleaned up a Wade & Butcher that's been sitting in the tadoo drawer.
Attachment 317149
Attachment 317150
Just a quicky on this one. Separating the scales, sand and CA the delamination spots, polish the scales, clean the blade w/ 3M, clean and polish the original, steel collars, pinned with brass rod.
Honed, and awaiting the shave for this evening.
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If the worm is too small......:rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 32t
I have one exactly like that which has a rust line across the etching. I need a good straight on close up picture I can use to try to make a resist from. Since it is already ruined I figured this would be a good place to try the acid etching. My plan is to make a 7 day set with the days etched in the spine but I need a razor to try it on first that I'm not so worried about making mistakes on.
About as good as I can get.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
Attachment 317162
I appreciate that. You've been very helpful.
The etching on that W&B is crisp!
Okay so that was a corny joke.
I happened to look in my junk mail & that's where all my emails from here have been going. The first one I saw was a few pages back where I saw something about scripture or something but there's a lot more in my junk. I don't get it because I didn't put any in my junk folder. I need to see if I can fix that.
I felt good enough to work on an '82 Harley FXRS I have and hone a couple razors. Hope you guys are doing well, at least better than me.
Are you overstretching it, Mike?Quote:
Originally Posted by Montgomery
You tried. I think sometimes comes a point of no return.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I either over-stretched it, or the leather was already shot. When I first got it, there was a thick layer of leather on the surface which had turned to powder. When I cleaned it with saddle soap (I know, I would moisturise first next time...) it came away as sludge. So perhaps the leather was indeed past the point of no return.Quote:
Originally Posted by engine46
But, parts of it are also fine, so I'm wondering if anything is still salvageable. Is there anything that can be done except sanding the rough parts? I'm thinking that if the cracked areas are cracked because they were insufficiently hydrated, would it be possible to fill the cracks with a readily-absorbed flexible adhesive? In the same way that nicks can be glued, something that I've had considerable success with.
We are into the experimental zone now obviously...
You can try flooding it with oil and see if it will absorb more. I have one old strop that has so much oil you can barely read the stamps on it. The strop was stiff as a board and stamps were deep, when I started oiling it.
If the leather is too far gone, it can make a good pasted strop, glued to a piece of wood, scrape the leather smooth then paste with paste of your choice. I make paddle strops for a variety of tools and knives, from shop tools to handheld smaller strop for axes. I buy thin, dented or damaged bamboo cutting boards from a local home goods outlet, $2-5 and cut them up for paddle strop backing.
I glue leather to wood with plane old yellow wood glue.
I often buy strops at flea markets where the leather is trashed or cut, for the hardware or the linen for a dollar or two, but often make small strops from the leather after rehydrating and scraping flat. Scraping also makes a nice napped surface that holds paste well.
I would try adding more oil then scraping smooth, before you give up on it.
In the above post I said the spray bottle dispenses a ¼ oz per spray, I meant ¼ teaspoon per spray.
I will try more oil and scraping, many thanks. The strop is still drinking oil, and discounting cracks within 5mm of the edges, I would say that 80% of the surface is fine, meaning supple, smooth and not cracked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
On the other hand, there is one notable thing about this strop, even after six months oiling, cleaning and hydrating, instead of smelling of oil and leather, it still smells strongly of dry musty leather. Dead, in other words
In any case, it has been a learning experience next time I would do several things differently:
-not try cleaning the strop until the re-hydration/re-oiling is well under way
-apply only neatsfoot oil, not dubbin
-be VERY patient (although this one has been ongoing for six months now...)
-begin the rolling/loosening/working process VERY slowly and VERY carefully, so that if it isn't ready I can stop
Dubbing is mostly wax used to waterproof leather. It may be preventing the oil from penetrating deep into the leather.
Try wiping the strop with a paper towel squirted with a WD40. WD40 is mostly solvent and a few application may remove more of the wax so oil can penetrate.
Then apply Neetsfoot, Ballistol or Olive oil. Try to remove as much of the wax as possible.
I did realise the problem with dubbin about two months ago, and scraped the wax off and started applying neatsfoot then. The neatsfoot still absorbs quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Let's see how we go on, many thanks!
Pure neetsfoot is harder to source, but the only stuff, aside from mink oil I use on strops. Neetsfoot blends have other stuff in them.
Dubbin and the like is great fir baseball mitts and leather wear though.
I have used neetsfoot and kerosene as a soak for really old brittle leather with success, but that was an old leather belt for wearing. Came back very soft and still in use today..
Good luck!
that's a interesting idea about the kerosene and neatsfoot soak. Do you know the ratio for that?
I went 8oz-1oz kerosene to neetsfoot.
Figured the kerosene would flash off leaving the oil deeper. And it seemed to do just that.
Smell and all gone in less than a weeks drying near a heat register.
I used to buy mine from the black pudding stall on the market, they used to sell just black puddings, four kinds of tripe, cow heel, pigs feet, and neatsfoot oil which I suppose was a by-product of the other items. The old ladies used to rub it into their arthritic joints, apparently it gives some relief. I have probably less than 50ml in the last bottle I bought. I no longer live in the area, but was there over Christmas and went to get another bottle, only to be told, 'we haven't sold that for 20 years love'. Shame.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB52
