Thread: What type of drill bit?

+ 1 for the dremel bit I use a stone grit cone piece and a tungsten burr also that works well also

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-jig-2.html

This link is to a post I did with dremel bit I used

Originally Posted by Bruno

Or you could leave it as is
It was good enough for the master cutlers at Joseph Rodgers ...

My thought as well. I can see wanting it to be as good as possible, but I think it was pretty common for vintage razors to not have very round pivot holes (at least from the few that I have taken apart).

If you have no problem with them clicking back and forth,than leave it be

Yep. If I don't want the blade to walk, I run a Dremel 1/8 tapered reamer slowly into it on the drill press at 280 rpm, oiled up good. It (the reamer) does not resemble a reamer anymore, but still goes thru!
Then, I pop a 1/8 aluminum pop rivet in. Dremel-drum the head off the rivet, and the backside. A 1/16 punch dispatches the mandrel. Makes a fine aluminum bushing which really contours to the weird hole in the blades!

Originally Posted by Bruno

Or you could leave it as is
It was good enough for the master cutlers at Joseph Rodgers ...

Truley do not think the master cutlers would tolorate a sloppy fit.
No more than you would on your blades,Oblong holes are caused by 100yrs+ of wear and tear,is an easy fix to bring them back as they were made orig.

Nah! They made them sloppy! Are what they are!

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Truley do not think the master cutlers would tolorate a sloppy fit.
No more than you would on your blades,Oblong holes are caused by 100yrs+ of wear and tear,is an easy fix to bring them back as they were made orig.

Yup!! Much stronger hot punch!
~Richard

There was nothing wrong with the pivot hole - I'm fitting a 1/8" barrel in so that I can use Torx head screws.

No, they are not caused by wear, They are caused by the shape of the spiked punch used to hammer the hole through the hot, soft tang,

If you take enough oldies apart and examine the edges of the hole you can often see the ridge of metal thrown up around the hole as the punch displaces it - in much the same way the punch used to hammer in the makers mark displaces the metal around it.

It is a small ridge though, and as it is a high spot it often wears down first, It can be revealed when attempting to grind the tang flat though.

No doubt the spiked punch started off as a round spike, but it only has to be hammered through the tang and hit the anvil a few times before it becomes flattened and square tipped.

I expect they were reshaped quite often, but the forger would get through a number of blades a day, so it is little wonder a lot of the pivot holes are mis-shaped.

Later on the holes were drilled, so the problem did not arise. You get a lot of crud around the pivot when you remove the scales, but if the razor has been looked after and rust is not playing a part, then a lot of the crud comes from the pin wearing. Brass is softer than steel. Relatively soft scales like horn don't contribute much to tang wear, either. Unlike with the later models with drilled tangs that often had brass or blued-steel friction washers that trap small abrasive particles and make an abrasive paste, However, this results in circular wear marks the same size as the washers and rarely, if ever, a distorted tang hole.

No, it is an oblong sectioned flattened spike which makes an oblong distorted hole in the tang.

Regards,
Neil