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Thread: What type of drill bit?
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07-13-2014, 11:03 AM #1
What type of drill bit?
I'm making a set of one piece scales and have some 1/8" barrels and torx head screws for the pivot - I'm aware that drilling out the pivot to accommodate the barrel is beyond an ordinary HSS drill bit so can anyone advise the type that I should be looking for? Also any advice on just how much bigger than the barrel would be appreciated.
i would prefer a generic spec rather than specific makes or retailers as I'm in the UK - as you can probably work out.
thanks in advance.
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07-13-2014, 11:14 AM #2
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Thanked: 2284Cobalt steel is the best kind of drill bits. What kind of material are you drilling through Rob?
Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....
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UKRob (07-14-2014)
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07-13-2014, 11:15 AM #3
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Thanked: 498I use carbide when I need to go thru hardened steel. Clamped down and with plenty of coolant besides.
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07-13-2014, 12:26 PM #4
Keep in mind that drilling hardened steel is one thing, drilling through an existing hole is quite another. The difference is that with a preexisting holes, the drill bit slams itself pretty violently into the burrs and ridges of the sides of the holes. this effect is the worst when the old hole is only slightly smaller than the new hole. It is of course possible to drill through the hole, but odds are that you'll destroy the drill bit(s) in the process. Drill bits are steel, so harder -> more brittle.
Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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07-13-2014, 12:36 PM #5
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Thanked: 2284Ding, ding, your drilling the blade pivot hole. I figured it out.
Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....
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07-13-2014, 12:41 PM #6
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Thanked: 498Bruno has a very good point especially on those very old Sheffield blades that have the square-ish holes. Those are hell on tooling. Might you know anyone with a machine shop they could use a carbide endmill to mill a clean round hole?
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UKRob (07-14-2014)
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07-13-2014, 01:40 PM #7
Rob, try to do this manually, with a reamer and lots of tapping fluid. It is safer (for you and for the blade). You can also enlarge the pivot hole using an abrasive rod, instead drilling the damn hard steel. Put a pint of machining oil on the fridge overnight to have cooool coolant in the morning if you choose this way.
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07-13-2014, 02:23 PM #8
Or you could leave it as is
It was good enough for the master cutlers at Joseph Rodgers ...Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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07-13-2014, 02:50 PM #9
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07-13-2014, 03:41 PM #10
HF has many cheap sets of "diamond" jewelers' files. An hour spent could do what you wish. Alternatively, the same source has a set of "diamond" Dremel bits which take a really light touch but will do the job.
Used both methods at different time to close a too large hole in a blade.
~Richard
PS. Not all tangs are fully hardened but some are.Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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