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Thread: Otto Deutsch 6/8ths I need help. Order of operation vs. Leave it alone

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    Sorry off topic.
    But I love this photo, especially the bench in the back ground, It confirms for me that I'm not the only one with bits & pieces everywehere on the bench while im working LOL.
    I am in awe of some workshop spaces I have seen here but this is reality for me. especially considering I used about only 2' of bench space for several months until I re-organised all my crap in the shed to reclaim the other 3' odd
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    Senior Member silverloaf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I have written about the 3M before. In my automotive work, I have used it for years on plastic and rubber parts. It goes in and rejuvenates, brings back flexibility and color. Some will say it does no good on celluloid, but I am a believer. I have many rot-prone scales in my collection. I treat them once a year. I clean the scales with diluted simple green and a toothbrush, after drying well, I slather the scales inside and out. Let it sit on a hard surface, turn over a few times. Repeat next day. Let sit another day.There should be little excess to wipe off after. Makes the colors pop again. Seems to keep the rot at bay, for me, anyway!

    Attachment 176182

    As to the crack, I would suggest taking the blade back past the crack in original configuration.
    A razor like this with a barber's notch would not look right, JMO.
    great tip tom!
    as for the barbers notch idea- I say try a minimal notch and see if its to your liking and you can always grind to originl configuration if its not. there is a problem with notching hollow grounds though and theres a reason why you don't have full hollows with notches. that little bit of toe under the notch will be too "flexy" and likely to be harder to keep honed properly (yes ive seen it). notching also creates more opportunity to catch on something and this will be a weak point that if stressed enough could crack your blade down the length (yes ive seen it). on full hollows the blade is often ground so thin in cross section that when notching it the notch will be very sharp itself and can cause injury if not properly handled (yes ive seen it). but again, you may like the aesthetic and if you are a careful user then it may work for you
    Silverloaf

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    Senior Member ultrasoundguy2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverloaf View Post
    great tip tom!
    as for the barbers notch idea- I say try a minimal notch and see if its to your liking and you can always grind to originl configuration if its not. there is a problem with notching hollow grounds though and theres a reason why you don't have full hollows with notches. that little bit of toe under the notch will be too "flexy" and likely to be harder to keep honed properly (yes ive seen it). notching also creates more opportunity to catch on something and this will be a weak point that if stressed enough could crack your blade down the length (yes ive seen it). on full hollows the blade is often ground so thin in cross section that when notching it the notch will be very sharp itself and can cause injury if not properly handled (yes ive seen it). but again, you may like the aesthetic and if you are a careful user then it may work for you
    Very good point never thought of that. I was in contact with original owner, a true gentleman, He suggested keeping this as true to original as possible. I would like to restore it for the next generation of wet shavers. Preservation is my prime concern. Day 2 post sanding, blade open and all is well.

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Substance View Post
    Sorry off topic.
    But I love this photo, especially the bench in the back ground, It confirms for me that I'm not the only one with bits & pieces everywehere on the bench while im working LOL.
    I am in awe of some workshop spaces I have seen here but this is reality for me. especially considering I used about only 2' of bench space for several months until I re-organised all my crap in the shed to reclaim the other 3' odd
    Ha ! You should see my 5' work bench clutter. Bandsaw, 2 grinders, small vise, Dremel stand & a box in the corner just to limit space.


    I would say the wedge is gassing off as well with the toe that rusty. I would hunt down some green acylic & rebuild the scales & shorten the tip to original. I agree a barber's notch would look wrong.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 08-16-2014 at 12:45 AM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Try moving 4K lbs of stuff yourself and cannot find what you need to get all back in working condition
    Name:  shop 001.JPG
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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Try moving 4K lbs of stuff yourself and cannot find what you need to get all back in working condition
    Now that is what I call a microscope, not to mention the other gear ........ one helluva microscope though !
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    On the upside it's a short walk to each machine.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    And normally having spare nuts and bolts in the work shop would be a good thing
    Until you remember where they were meant to be
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Now that is what I call a microscope, not to mention the other gear ........ one helluva microscope though !
    Great scope,just put on local Craigslist.that base wgts 30 lbs
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  11. #20
    The First Cut is the Deepest! Magpie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I have written about the 3M before. In my automotive work, I have used it for years on plastic and rubber parts. It goes in and rejuvenates, brings back flexibility and color. Some will say it does no good on celluloid, but I am a believer. I have many rot-prone scales in my collection. I treat them once a year. I clean the scales with diluted simple green and a toothbrush, after drying well, I slather the scales inside and out. Let it sit on a hard surface, turn over a few times. Repeat next day. Let sit another day.There should be little excess to wipe off after. Makes the colors pop again. Seems to keep the rot at bay, for me, anyway!


    As to the crack, I would suggest taking the blade back past the crack in original configuration.
    A razor like this with a barber's notch would not look right, JMO.

    Are you saying you used the silicone on scales already showing signs of rot and it stopped it? or you used it on scales that have not yet rotted? Because there is NO doubt in my mind that poor Otto is in its rotting stage.
    I would seriously consider sending the blade to a pro for shortening. That crack is in a rough location, and the wrong move could cause it to spread. and no barbers notch. =)

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