Results 11 to 20 of 39
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08-14-2014, 09:36 PM #11
Sorry off topic.
But I love this photo, especially the bench in the back ground, It confirms for me that I'm not the only one with bits & pieces everywehere on the bench while im working LOL.
I am in awe of some workshop spaces I have seen here but this is reality for me. especially considering I used about only 2' of bench space for several months until I re-organised all my crap in the shed to reclaim the other 3' oddSaved,
to shave another day.
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08-15-2014, 04:41 PM #12
great tip tom!
as for the barbers notch idea- I say try a minimal notch and see if its to your liking and you can always grind to originl configuration if its not. there is a problem with notching hollow grounds though and theres a reason why you don't have full hollows with notches. that little bit of toe under the notch will be too "flexy" and likely to be harder to keep honed properly (yes ive seen it). notching also creates more opportunity to catch on something and this will be a weak point that if stressed enough could crack your blade down the length (yes ive seen it). on full hollows the blade is often ground so thin in cross section that when notching it the notch will be very sharp itself and can cause injury if not properly handled (yes ive seen it). but again, you may like the aesthetic and if you are a careful user then it may work for youSilverloaf
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The Following User Says Thank You to silverloaf For This Useful Post:
ultrasoundguy2003 (08-15-2014)
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08-15-2014, 11:24 PM #13
Very good point never thought of that. I was in contact with original owner, a true gentleman, He suggested keeping this as true to original as possible. I would like to restore it for the next generation of wet shavers. Preservation is my prime concern. Day 2 post sanding, blade open and all is well.
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08-16-2014, 12:42 AM #14
Ha ! You should see my 5' work bench clutter. Bandsaw, 2 grinders, small vise, Dremel stand & a box in the corner just to limit space.
I would say the wedge is gassing off as well with the toe that rusty. I would hunt down some green acylic & rebuild the scales & shorten the tip to original. I agree a barber's notch would look wrong.Last edited by onimaru55; 08-16-2014 at 12:45 AM.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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08-16-2014, 12:47 AM #15
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Thanked: 2027Try moving 4K lbs of stuff yourself and cannot find what you need to get all back in working condition
CAUTION
Dangerous within 1 Mile
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08-16-2014, 01:00 AM #16
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08-16-2014, 01:03 AM #17
On the upside it's a short walk to each machine.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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08-16-2014, 01:17 AM #18
And normally having spare nuts and bolts in the work shop would be a good thing
Until you remember where they were meant to beSaved,
to shave another day.
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08-16-2014, 01:19 AM #19
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08-16-2014, 06:26 AM #20
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Are you saying you used the silicone on scales already showing signs of rot and it stopped it? or you used it on scales that have not yet rotted? Because there is NO doubt in my mind that poor Otto is in its rotting stage.
I would seriously consider sending the blade to a pro for shortening. That crack is in a rough location, and the wrong move could cause it to spread. and no barbers notch. =)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Magpie For This Useful Post:
ultrasoundguy2003 (08-16-2014)