Thread: Otto Deutsch 6/8ths I need help. Order of operation vs. Leave it alone

I haven't tried it but my thought would be if you were working close to the surface of waters you can pick up the cooling from it. I'm having trouble getting it from my head to the keyboard.

good point. standing off to the side was a thought. Full hollow with a curved crack was wobbling too much for comfort on hone stone. toe down, blade vertical. tried back and forth, which was slightly better than circles. It felt like a flag atop a flagpole it wobbled so bad. . Crazy plan is to freeze the wood over night, and hold an ice cube in the hollow just off the cut mark. and be decisive yet careful. wheel heats stop. cool and replace cube in hollow. Its the only idea I got. So I aint racing into this. kinda circling and stalking a plan of attack. Good point though. As a good Mentor would. Thank-you

perhaps a wet sponge partially frozen as your backer. That is probably as low tech of a heat sink as you will find. If the sponge was fairly dense it may give some support. A face shield is often a really great option as well.

I don't use a backer because if you forget and apply to much pressure, snap, no more worries because it is useless now. I use electrical tape as a guide for my cut as well as to keep any vibration down that may cause problems while cutting, I also do the cutting freehand. Cut a little dip it in room temp water, cold water has a better chance of warping the razor. A little at a time and slowly, you should do fine.

Now that the crack is removed. I need to shape and smooth toe at the spine. Dremmel on slow?? Sand paper 220grit? that might take awhile. Lay it flat on sanding block and work one side at a time and feather the middle??


Used all your advise by the way it was the epoxy and three layers of electrical tape. but that caused the rest of the blade to not lay flat. squared blade end on sanding block end. scored both sides on blade with deremmel using the tape line to stay square. holding dremmel level based on tape line. Once scored I worked from edge up to spine. Flipping blade over to ensure straight cut. once cut through at edge followed the line north towards spine. Ice water for blade with ice cube placed in hollow.
Results as follows .Thanks to all members ideas input and warnings helped to calm my nerves and just give it my best. This one is for the help thus far
Thank-you.

Originally Posted by guitstik

I don't use a backer because if you forget and apply to much pressure, snap, no more worries because it is useless now. I use electrical tape as a guide for my cut as well as to keep any vibration down that may cause problems while cutting, I also do the cutting freehand. Cut a little dip it in room temp water, cold water has a better chance of warping the razor. A little at a time and slowly, you should do fine.

See pics its a done deal now. Your points are good. I did take it slow. the shrapnel warning and running crack warning had me circling the project half the morning thinking and over thinking . How does cold water warp a razor?? and in which direction? and is it due to the shock of hot metal to cold water? Where would I check to see if I did this? Down the shaft?? Spine looking down toward blade? Have you ever done this? Now I am going back to stare at a razor that still has 10 days in quarantine till I go back to work on it.

Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

See pics its a done deal now. Your points are good. I did take it slow. the shrapnel warning and running crack warning had me circling the project half the morning thinking and over thinking . How does cold water warp a razor?? and in which direction? and is it due to the shock of hot metal to cold water? Where would I check to see if I did this? Down the shaft?? Spine looking down toward blade? Have you ever done this? Now I am going back to stare at a razor that still has 10 days in quarantine till I go back to work on it.

Whenever I put a razor in a situation where heat is a concern I try to keep it at bay, I also check it on a known flat surface for warpage. The sudden change from hot to cold, especially on a thin piece of metal, is bound to cause a certain amount of warping so I try to keep the heat buildup to a minimum as well as the change in temperature thus the luke warm water. I place the razors that I work with on a thick piece of glass that I know to be true as I work on it either buffing or grinding. If, during the work, I feel that it has deviated from true straight I then determine what it will take to bring it back in line. There are several options at that point but not something that I would care to try and elaborate on as it would be very complicated in this format. If you are happy with the results than by all means carry on. It looks good so far.

Good job
Now back on track nearly looks like nice shaver for sure and neone will ever notice
Maybe

Out of the ICUThank-you to all members for their input and ideas. Pictures tell the rest