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Thread: maintain horn

  1. #11
    ~ Life is but a Dream ~ petercp4e's Avatar
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    I'm no chemist, and don't know what the differences in oils are, but I've had very good luck soaking horn scales in warm mineral oil.

    Pete <:-}
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  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    There are 2 kinds of neatsfoot oil sold. I wouldn't soak anything in the 1 with petroleum additives.

    If you feel you must, just a wipe is all it needs for maintenance. I understand the reason for the soakers method I just don't think it's necessary.

    I am in Mike's camp but I know restoring is not for everyone.
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

  3. #13
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10Pups View Post
    There are 2 kinds of neatsfoot oil sold. I wouldn't soak anything in the 1 with petroleum additives.

    If you feel you must, just a wipe is all it needs for maintenance. I understand the reason for the soakers method I just don't think it's necessary.

    I am in Mike's camp but I know restoring is not for everyone.
    Well, if you come across something which is so nice, yet dry. Neetsfoot on a q-tip cannot be beat!
    Best for those which should be left alone! JMO
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    I rest my case.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth whoever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10Pups View Post
    There are 2 kinds of neatsfoot oil sold. I wouldn't soak anything in the 1 with petroleum additives.

    If you feel you must, just a wipe is all it needs for maintenance. I understand the reason for the soakers method I just don't think it's necessary.

    I am in Mike's camp but I know restoring is not for everyone.
    if the razor still closes straight, and tight, than why would you unpin wen you can get all areas with either a soak or q-tip
    "If you want it, that's what you do best" - Woz
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  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth whoever's Avatar
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    I just noticed this crack , what would be the best way of dealing with it, its its together, and the pivot still functions I woul assume its just need to be hyrated ? correc or am i worng ?
    "If you want it, that's what you do best" - Woz
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  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth whoever's Avatar
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    this what my bottles says :Neatsfoot Oil Combination Of Natural & Synthetic Oils Used By Saddlemakers & Bootmakers To Soften Preserve & Waterproof Smooth Leathers It Lubricates The Fibers Which Restores Suppleness Great For Use On Outdoor Leather Gear Such As Boots & Baseball Gloves.
    -- Not alot of help, but tetroleum additives?
    "If you want it, that's what you do best" - Woz
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  7. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth tintin's Avatar
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    Mine just says "100% neetsfoot oil"
    Steel likes this.

  8. #18
    Member JimmyWetshaver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whoever View Post
    this what my bottles says :Neatsfoot Oil Combination Of Natural & Synthetic Oils Used By Saddlemakers & Bootmakers To Soften Preserve & Waterproof Smooth Leathers It Lubricates The Fibers Which Restores Suppleness Great For Use On Outdoor Leather Gear Such As Boots & Baseball Gloves.
    -- Not alot of help, but tetroleum additives?
    Although I do not use neetsfoot it is my understanding that using pure neetsfoot from a tack shop is the way to go. I use mineral oil. With mineral oil you would in no way effect the metal in a negative fashion.

  9. #19
    Fatty Boom Boom WW243's Avatar
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    You may have some other problems at that pivot pin in addition to the crack. On the subject of oil I believe if you are not going to unpin the razor you do not want to get any oil near the pivot pin....
    "Call me Ishmael"
    CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!

  10. #20
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    That could be a crack, or possibly delamination. IF you are going to dribble some CA in there, do it BEFORE you apply the neetsfoot. Otherwise whoever won't get the CA to stick whatsoever.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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