Thread: resto renew worstenholm

i have gotten this 5/8 and cleaned it up withe a fiberglass pen on the tale(until it ran out ) and mothers mag. I am stuck on how to get the darkening at the spine before the etching, I tried blocking with tape on the etching, and using 220 with w9-40 but when no ware,, and I would lose the etching, should I just keep going at it with the mothers mag, or just renew the etching and call it a day.
also I noticed that the makers mark is on the back side of the tang, is that the norm?

That's not that bad. I've seen worst!!!!!

I think looking at the "darkening" with a loupe will reveal it is actually rust & pitting.
If you can't shift it with 220 grit it is deeper than the etch.
You could try some abrasive compounds on the end of a chopstick to get inside the pitting. If there is no obvious pitting & it is simply black staining (devil's spit), good luck with that. It often runs deeper than pitting.

its really deep pitting I have discovered, should I soak the end in CLR

Originally Posted by whoever

its really deep pitting I have discovered, should I soak the end in CLR

I have never tried CLR but I has some stuff called EVAPO-RUST which I saw someone else on here use. I even used it in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Originally Posted by whoever

its really deep pitting I have discovered, should I soak the end in CLR

Before any restoration you should assess the edge by at least setting a bevel that does not constantly chip as you work.
Rust is rarely isolated.

CLR is acidic. It will eat the metal. Evapo-Rust won't harm the metal. It only attacks the rust.

The soak time is somewhat lengthy, but it is harmless to anything that isn't rust. That being said, scales that can absorb liquids should avoid the soak. A moot point if you already planned to remove the scales.

For info directly from the horse's mouth:
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover

Originally Posted by Crawler

CLR is acidic. It will eat the metal. Evapo-Rust won't harm the metal. It only attacks the rust.

The soak time is somewhat lengthy, but it is harmless to anything that isn't rust. That being said, scales that can absorb liquids should avoid the soak. A moot point if you already planned to remove the scales.

For info directly from the horse's mouth:
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover

I don't know if those scales are bad , see first and last pics from op after neatfeet
I can't find evapo-rust locally
The best place I can find it is on amazon.. Anvanced auto wants twice a much as amazon for the same weight.
Al's is there an unofficial soak time?

Originally Posted by whoever

...
Also, is there an unofficial soak time?

Fixed! .

Considering the fine grain of the metal in good razors, and the fact that pitting can be microscopic, the norm here is much longer than the manufacturer's instructions. Normally, razors are soaked from 6 to 48 hours.

It will turn the metal kind of gunmetal grey. But that wipes off easily with 0000 steel wool or 2k paper.

I'm not lucky enough to have an ultrasonic cleaner to combine with this stuff, but it sure sounds like a good way to go.

would .5 micron lapping film be to fine, and i would be concerned the steel wool would kill my etching ?

Originally Posted by Crawler

Fixed! .

Considering the fine grain of the metal in good razors, and the fact that pitting can be microscopic, the norm here is much longer than the manufacturer's instructions. Normally, razors are soaked from 6 to 48 hours.

It will turn the metal kind of gunmetal grey. But that wipes off easily with 0000 steel wool or 2k paper.

I'm not lucky enough to have an ultrasonic cleaner to combine with this stuff, but it sure sounds like a good way to go.