I agree. Sometimes a blade comes up on the bay in good shape but they usually go for a lot but you never know..................there's the ones that happen to slip under the radar & get bought cheap.
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Well, time for plan C........ Possibly D! :rofl2:
Total Fail!
Came in this morning. was inspecting the inlay and pushing down on it a bit. As I released my finger, the devil hopped-off, did a backflip, and landed by the scale right side up! Looks like the CA did not melt into the scale enough. It has stuck to the inlay nicely. I think the polished surface was the culprit. I can now see where to scratch the scale where the inlay goes and try that again.
AND I took my test-scale with the poly and bent it a little and cracks across the scale appeared. Broke it up some and determined it was the polyurethane cracking.
Attachment 216388
Back to the drawing board. Someone mentioned the clear they use on the fishing rods. Thinking that is what I need.
Any recommendations.
Haa! I was going through some straights & came across a B.J. Erye, Late W Greaves & Sons & it has a crack in the heel. Another butchered blade. I'll be up & going soon. My sour stomach seems to have gone away but slowly getting my appetite back. I think I will be working on the Barber-sori next. I had to set the W&B aside for now. Anyway the B.J. Erye, Late W Greaves & Sons is another that needs surgery.
Tom, I still think you're on the right track but if it was a polished surface, it wouldn't have adhered correctly. Needs to be scuffed up or sanded & then you can do your final polishing once completed. I don't think it would make any difference if you polished them, then taped off where the devil goes & sand that spot with some fine sandpaper. The clear coat will take care of it from there. You may have to use the stuff they have on fishing rods but I believe it would work even the way you did it previously but as long as the surface where the devil goes isn't polished. Still a great job & I think it will work out this time. If anything, go back over Wirms link he showed. I saved it for myself also.
Insta-Flex Flexible Thin CA Glue 1. oz
Outback is the fisherman, but the above link to hobby grade flex CA might help. Used on landing gear of RC helicopters. And boy do those flex sometimes.
Nice that the inlay is intact still! And now you have an outline ;)
Damn devil doesn't even wanna stick around! He's usually everywhere's else!!!!! :shrug:
Yeah, have not ruined anything yet, Mike!
The stuff you showed is flexible CA. I wonder how it would work on Celluloid, though. It would be nice to have something in a spray can. I have another scale half to experiment with!
The stuff they use on the rods is quite tough!
Attachment 216392
B52, that Insta-Flex sounds like the thing! They should have used something like that in the CA Kit I told outback about since he said he had cracks in some of his scales he did. They must have added something to it to make it flex & not crack. That is why on a strop, if I had to use some glue to stick a small part of it back down, I prefer to use rubber cement which is very much like the glue that comes in an old tube repair kit for tires. It's pliable & not hard.
But back to the Insta-Flex, I think it would work as well.
Tom, I'm sorry. I wasn't trying to make you you like you don't know how to do it by all means nor was I implying that I know it all because I don't. If someone were to ask me if I knew everything, I would probably say "I know nothing" like Schultz in Hogans Hero's!
You actually have a lot of good knowledge & we all do which is why we're here to share & work together.
Stuff sticks to everything but open cell foam. Melts that stuff.