The Butchered Blade

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10-23-2015, 03:52 PM
sharptonn

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by engine46

B52, that Insta-Flex sounds like the thing! They should have used something like that in the CA Kit I told outback about since he said he had cracks in some of his scales he did. They must have added something to it to make it flex & not crack. That is why on a strop, if I had to use some glue to stick a small part of it back down, I prefer to use rubber cement which is very much like the glue that comes in an old tube repair kit for tires. It's pliable & not hard.
But back to the Insta-Flex, I think it would work as well.

Tom, I'm sorry. I wasn't trying to make you you like you don't know how to do it nor was I implying that I know it all because I don't. If someone were to ask me if I knew everything, I would probably say I know nothing like Schultz in Hogans Hero's!
You actually have a lot of good knowledge & we all do which is why we're here to share & work together.

No worries, Steve. Not afraid to post fails, my friend! Trying and failing is how things are discovered.
Joys and heartaches are a part of it. When the devil flew off, I just laughed! :D

Attachment 216394
10-23-2015, 04:04 PM
engine46

I would have done the same & I would have said something like, " damn dude, I didn't know you had wings!" Yeah, I kinda goofed on the W&B but I think it will be ok but it is on the side burner for now. At least I have little or nothing in it.
10-23-2015, 04:26 PM
sharptonn

Same with this mess. Stuff we do with junkers has little financial risk. Part of the fun!
10-23-2015, 04:50 PM
engine46

I just found some interesting information. It has nothing to do with anything now but in the past we have discussed how to set CA when applying it in the past & I found that moisture helps. I was reading this thread on coticule.be & linseed oil is used as an accelerator for CA.

http://www.coticule.be/rescaling.html

Go down to Part 3
"The linseed oil is used as an accelerator to set the CA faster."
10-23-2015, 04:54 PM
sharptonn

That is interesting. However, I think I will get some slow-setting stuff for my next attempt on the inlay.
Seems it would melt longer and better if it dried a little slower?
10-23-2015, 04:55 PM
engine46

Oh yes, of course Tom. I just found it very interesting. I haven't spent that much time on there but will be from now on. I did buy my last Belgian Coticule from there. Let me rephrase that. I bought my last one from Ardennes Cuticle but I thought they were a part of that site but they aren't. I know what i did. I went to their site to buy the stone & hit a link on honing & it directed me to the coticule.be.

As a good reference for future CA use & if you want your CA to setup faster, you use linseed oil as an accelerator.
10-23-2015, 05:15 PM
outback

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Well, time for plan C........ Possibly D! :rofl2:

Total Fail!

Came in this morning. was inspecting the inlay and pushing down on it a bit. As I released my finger, the devil hopped-off, did a backflip, and landed by the scale right side up! Looks like the CA did not melt into the scale enough. It has stuck to the inlay nicely. I think the polished surface was the culprit. I can now see where to scratch the scale where the inlay goes and try that again.

AND I took my test-scale with the poly and bent it a little and cracks across the scale appeared. Broke it up some and determined it was the polyurethane cracking.

Attachment 216388

Back to the drawing board. Someone mentioned the clear they use on the fishing rods. Thinking that is what I need.
Any recommendations.

Its called flex coat Tom..
Another thought was, plastic model glue by Testers to glue them down then the flex coat.
Maybe work maybe not
10-23-2015, 05:18 PM
outback

Quote:

Originally Posted by engine46

Damn devil doesn't even wanna stick around! He's usually everywhere's else!!!!! :shrug:

But he did leave his mark.[emoji1]
10-23-2015, 05:32 PM
MikeT

When using CA I always scuff the surface. It doesn't like to stick to metal so i do more than just scuff, I gouge it deep! Increasing the mechanical adhesion.
You can't do that with the thin inlays. So a better bonding agent is necessary.
OR I was thinking what I'm going to try is to heat up the scales to about 100 degrees, and heat up the inlay with a soldering iron while pushing it down gently. It might work.
Another form of mechanical adhesion can be achieved (maybe) by dropping a dot or two of metal with the soldering iron on the wider places of the inlay... those would sink into the celluloid... it's possible..?
10-23-2015, 05:40 PM
engine46

Quote:

Originally Posted by outback

But he did leave his mark.[emoji1]

Yeah Mike, he seems to be everywhere but then he doesn't wanna stick around. That isn't like the devil!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeT

When using CA I always scuff the surface. It doesn't like to stick to metal so i do more than just scuff, I gouge it deep! Increasing the mechanical adhesion.
You can't do that with the thin inlays. So a better bonding agent is necessary.
OR I was thinking what I'm going to try is to heat up the scales to about 100 degrees, and heat up the inlay with a soldering iron while pushing it down gently. It might work.
Another form of mechanical adhesion can be achieved (maybe) by dropping a dot or two of metal with the soldering iron on the wider places of the inlay... those would sink into the celluloid... it's possible..?

Yeah MikeT, sanding the spot where the devil will go plus sanding the back side of the devil which I'm sure Tom did do it. Sh*t happens sometimes & he popped off but I know Tom will get it successfully.