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Thread: Caswell greaseless compund won't stick

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Default Caswell greaseless compund won't stick

    I am trying to load my cotton wheel polishing discs with Caswell Satin Glo greaseless compound but it does not stick to the wheel. Any recommendations?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    A little more info will help me help you Kees

    Size of the wheels
    Type of wheel ie: Loose, Sewn, Sisal ???
    Speed of the buffer

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I have had some issues with the package drying out at the end, due to lack of use, and it does not load either. My solution has been to cut it back to some more pliable compound and it sticks. It was however with 400 and 600 grit. My wheels are spiral sewn denim and my buffer runs at 3450 rpm at full speed.
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    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
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    I keep my 3 grits in a ziplock bag and that in a fridge. No problems with drying to date but I have not loaded a wheel in a while.
    If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I do the same for storage, but my package are three years old and I have barely used 20%. I expect that the storage really does extend the shelf life, but I am just not a heavy consumer.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Raking new wheels to fluff out the end will help a lot, as will trimming the loose threads with a sharp scissor.

    The amount of moisture in the compound will greatly affect the application, too hard or too soft will prevent it from sticking to the wheel as will the speed of the wheel at application.

    Moisture can be regulated by storing in air tight containers with a damp paper towel to add moisture or air drying if too soft. The tube should have the consistency of a block of Monterey Jack cheese, Brie is too soft, Cheddar too hard. Yes, I do like my cheese…

    I store mine in a large Zip loc bag (3 tubes per bag), with a folded piece of wet paper towel and the bags in a large air tight plasitc (tupper ware type container). I keep them stored in at least a plastic bag while in use to maintain moisture level. Rock hard pieces can be rehydrated with the paper towel and or a dunking in water and then sealed up to absorb.

    The wheels ability to accept the compound will improve with use and should be able to take a full loading after 2-3 raking and applications, but compound moisture plays a large role.

    Raking new wheels, will help most, but each type of wheel has its own idiosyncrasies as does the weather and temperature.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your replies. My wheel is sewn cotton. The compound may have dried out a bit but it has never stuck really well to the wheel. I'll make sure it won't dry any further. I have a variable speed bench polisher, minimum speed 1750 RPM. That is the speed I usually use. Should I use higher speed? Come to think about it I remember using a greasy high grit compound on it earlier on the same wheel. That might be part of the problem.
    One question: how do I rake a polishing wheel?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    With a wheel rake

    No seriously that is what you use

    Keep in mind that raking is for Polishing compounds when they build up on the wheels, Greaseless compounds are designed to build up on the wheel

    You need separate wheels for each compound that you use,,,

    Try flipping the wheel the other way

    Try speeding up the rpm when loading greaseless, the higher speed helps to "Melt" the compound on the wheel,, once the wheel has a coating then it gets easier each time


    Just like everything else in this hobby there is a learning curve..



    Caswell's has a pretty good info section also, shows a rake at the very beginning hehehe

    http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm
    Last edited by gssixgun; 01-16-2016 at 07:01 PM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Wheel rake,

    Yes if you put greased compound on, it may not take greaseless as well, though I have never tried.

    One compound per wheel, I use 2 wheels per grit, so one is always drying. And I mark the grit and the rotation on the wheel, don’t know that it matters. Make sure your marking are above any washers or stiffeners that are in place when on the buffer, so you can see the direction and grit.

    I use 4, 600 grit wheels, it is the grit I use most. And keep the 600 grit wheels in various loading for different application. BTW, a worn 600 wheel is great for cleaning jimps, will make them gleam like new, or for a light polish.

    You must rake your wheels and trim, before each application of greased and a fluffed greaseless wheel seems to take greaseless better, mine are void of grit when I reload anyway.

    Some say you can use a large screwdriver, to rake, but I think you are just asking for trouble, Wheel rakes are not that expensive and much safer, made for use with 2 hands, do wear breathing protection, fine fibers will be released. I also use a fan, blowing air and dust across the face of the buffer and away from me.

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    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
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    Caswell sells a wheel prep product called Glu-Tite Greaseless Wheel Prep. New wheels can be a bit tricky to get the first coat of greaseless to stick. This stuff will give the compound something sticky to stick to. Apply it sparingly. Once you get some compound to start adhering to the wheel over this stuff you will not need to apply it again. Like Glen said once you get the compound to start sticking it will go easy. When you've gained some experience you may find you do not need the Glu-Tite to load a new wheel.
    Good Luck,
    Karl
    Last edited by karlej; 01-17-2016 at 12:39 AM.
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