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Thread: Caswell greaseless compund won't stick

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Default Caswell greaseless compund won't stick

    I am trying to load my cotton wheel polishing discs with Caswell Satin Glo greaseless compound but it does not stick to the wheel. Any recommendations?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    A little more info will help me help you Kees

    Size of the wheels
    Type of wheel ie: Loose, Sewn, Sisal ???
    Speed of the buffer

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I have had some issues with the package drying out at the end, due to lack of use, and it does not load either. My solution has been to cut it back to some more pliable compound and it sticks. It was however with 400 and 600 grit. My wheels are spiral sewn denim and my buffer runs at 3450 rpm at full speed.
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    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
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    I keep my 3 grits in a ziplock bag and that in a fridge. No problems with drying to date but I have not loaded a wheel in a while.
    If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I do the same for storage, but my package are three years old and I have barely used 20%. I expect that the storage really does extend the shelf life, but I am just not a heavy consumer.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Raking new wheels to fluff out the end will help a lot, as will trimming the loose threads with a sharp scissor.

    The amount of moisture in the compound will greatly affect the application, too hard or too soft will prevent it from sticking to the wheel as will the speed of the wheel at application.

    Moisture can be regulated by storing in air tight containers with a damp paper towel to add moisture or air drying if too soft. The tube should have the consistency of a block of Monterey Jack cheese, Brie is too soft, Cheddar too hard. Yes, I do like my cheese…

    I store mine in a large Zip loc bag (3 tubes per bag), with a folded piece of wet paper towel and the bags in a large air tight plasitc (tupper ware type container). I keep them stored in at least a plastic bag while in use to maintain moisture level. Rock hard pieces can be rehydrated with the paper towel and or a dunking in water and then sealed up to absorb.

    The wheels ability to accept the compound will improve with use and should be able to take a full loading after 2-3 raking and applications, but compound moisture plays a large role.

    Raking new wheels, will help most, but each type of wheel has its own idiosyncrasies as does the weather and temperature.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your replies. My wheel is sewn cotton. The compound may have dried out a bit but it has never stuck really well to the wheel. I'll make sure it won't dry any further. I have a variable speed bench polisher, minimum speed 1750 RPM. That is the speed I usually use. Should I use higher speed? Come to think about it I remember using a greasy high grit compound on it earlier on the same wheel. That might be part of the problem.
    One question: how do I rake a polishing wheel?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    With a wheel rake

    No seriously that is what you use

    Keep in mind that raking is for Polishing compounds when they build up on the wheels, Greaseless compounds are designed to build up on the wheel

    You need separate wheels for each compound that you use,,,

    Try flipping the wheel the other way

    Try speeding up the rpm when loading greaseless, the higher speed helps to "Melt" the compound on the wheel,, once the wheel has a coating then it gets easier each time


    Just like everything else in this hobby there is a learning curve..



    Caswell's has a pretty good info section also, shows a rake at the very beginning hehehe

    http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm
    Last edited by gssixgun; 01-16-2016 at 07:01 PM.
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    Previously lost, now "Pasturized" kaptain_zero's Avatar
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    Speed is only one half of the equation, the diameter of the wheel is the other. 1750rpm may be great for a 10" wheel, but if you are spinning a 4" wheel, you need way more rpm to get the same surface fpm (which I assume is what melts the compound and gets it to stick to the wheel). That said, I have zero experience with these grease-less compounds and I will defer to the experts on how to actually use it.


    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    A little more info will help me help you Kees

    Size of the wheels
    Type of wheel ie: Loose, Sewn, Sisal ???
    Speed of the buffer
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    I cleaned the wheel with white spirit and turned it round. I only manage to get some of the compound to stick to the wheel if I really push the bar of compound against the spinning wheel. While doing so most of the compound that is rubbed off the bar ends as crumbs on the floor and the workbench. Is that normal?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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