Thread: re: scale shaping - how to make consistent beveled edges ?

i feel like im able to make rounded scales that i am desiring in many shapes and sizes, but the flat-sided with a 'beveled' edge still eludes me. i can get a (fairly) consistent beveled edge all the way around the scale initially using a vertical belt sander, but when i move up the sanding progression, or especially when i put the scales on the buffer for a final smooth-n-polish, i lose the hard edge and soften the line between bevel and (flat) side. i hope i am making sense and explaining properly.

i was thinking about maybe using a drum sander but i would also need something else to rest the scale against to ensure the same uniform bevel angle. i was also considering a router as the router bit itself could impart the desired angle. but again, once i take the scale to the buffer ill most likely lose that nice hard edge between the two.

so my question is this ... how are you other scale makers out there able to put a scratch-free polish on your scales without ruining that nice clean separation between the flat side and the beveled edge?

any advice would be greatly appreciated.
thanks!

Hand finishing

I rough out bevels and radii with a piece of scratch stock then sand by hand. If you have any pieces of bandsaw blades laying around, handsaws you don’t care about or cabinet scrapers, you can use fine files to create your desired profile then get to scraping, just be mindful of grain direction whether it’s wood or horn.

I prefer to take that line away and make a smooth rounded edge. The flat is still there but the edge is rounded completely up to it.

For period correct scales say 1800 - 1830 I like that clear distinct bevel along the edge of the scales. I see many examples from that time frame that are flat with the bevel. Here is a link to a recent post with that type of scale in bone but is most common in horn.https://sharprazorpalace.com/custom-...40-j-shaw.html The material in a rough profile from the band saw is taped together using double sided tape. Some use rubber cement but there is no dry time with the tape and it holds well for me. I do not recommend carpet tape. It's much stronger than needed and you may damage a thin set of scales separating them. The scales are finish profiled on a belt grinder. I use a 1 x 42 with 80 grit. Here's a post from a few years ago on how I make my scales. https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...-way-i-do.html The process is pretty much the same for flat scales with a beveled edge. Reduce the scales to final thickness and then hold against the belt at an angle and rough in the bevel. Make long continuous passes so the cut is not wavy. Having an original set of scales to copy helps. Next back to my bench and I use a scraper to true up the bevel. Then a hand file and finally various grit of wet/dry paper. I sand dry but choose the wet/dry because it has better glue and lasts longer than regular sandpaper. Use a firm backing when sanding the scales flat and for the bevel. A small block of wood or hard felt will work. Sanding with too soft a backing or worse no backing will destroy the clean lines you have created and even create waves in the surface. A desk type lamp that you can swivel the head on to create shadows on your work will help greatly to see your progress.
Hope this helps.

Thats pretty much how I do them. Minus the belt sander.

A piece if sandpaper wrapped around a paint stick, works wonders.

I f its horn u may want to refrain from using the buffer on the very edge, do that part by hand. U won't notice any difference if sanded to a high grit.



Always buff off an edge, never into it. BTW

that image above is exactly what im talking about. thank you all for your knowledge and advice. very helpful. looks like i was 90% there, but i was free-handing the higher-grit sand paper so softening the edge between bevel and flat. i will try using a firm backing and see how that goes.

again, thank you for the info above. much apprediated.
-s.

Interesting post and something I too have thought about.

A high-speed spinning router bit and moving small, thin razor scale is a recipe for disaster or at least make me uncomfortable. Even a fixed held piece and moving router is problematic, and a routed edge is not a finished edge, it will still need to be finish sanded or scraped.

One thing you can do that offers a lot more control is to rough in the bevel on the belt sander or hand sand, then finish with a scraper. Many things can be used as scrapers, purchase read- made scrapers from woodworking suppliers or gunsmithing suppliers, Brownell’s.

I have been using single edge razorblade in plastic holders and thin dollar store snap off razor knives. I use them to refinish hand plane totes and knobs, they are very efficient on flats and tight inside curves, easily re-sharpened or replaceable, (pack of blade $1) and low cost.

I free hand scrape, but one could make a jig at a given angle, where the scale is held in place,(think shooting board) or a hand held scraper at a given angle in a wooden base, think molding plane. Use the jig for the finished edge after finish sanding. Neither needs to be that sophisticated, just hold the work piece and scraper at a given angle.

With a little practice, you can get very nice finished results with scrapers

Polishing is a difference issue.

Most are a 45° angle. Just sayin.