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Thread: Observations and request for pointers on hand sanding

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    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
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    Ahhhh grasshopper you ask a difficult question. This is like asking what the meaning of life is. As Rezdog said I go about it differently for each one on a case by case basis. Normally I use either steel wool and WD-40 or 2k wet/dry to knock down the big stuff at the beginning before I decide how to proceed. The synthetic cork works well. Stick with that. I also use a brass tube. It depends on if I am trying to save an.etching or engraving.
    On the question of when to go to the next grade I use as a rule of thumb: just before I think I am almost there. As you go through the grades the pits and stains will diminish. I usually don't go as far back as what the article mentions. I usually start at 320. If it is really bad I'll go back to 220 but seldom further than that. I find the grits lower than that leave.too many deep scratches that are very hard to get out as you have discovered. I will go down the grits fairly quickly then go back many times if necessary. I also alternate directions. It makes the scratches.seem not to appear as much.
    It looks pretty good but you have discovered the problem. You will find yourself saying "I'm sanding and I can't stop!" You sort.of have to figure it out as you go.how far is enough... hopefully.before.turning it into foil. We've all done it.
    Good luck with it and keep us posted.
    Last edited by PaulFLUS; 08-21-2019 at 12:56 AM.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

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