Thread: W&B 8/8 FBU shorty project

Ive ran across a couple that the pits were so bad that when i got to honing it and then looking at it on the scope i found holes not pits in the bevel. Those i worked out completely. Looked like swiss cheese.

My dyeing horn powder experiment is done. Mixed up some dye and let the powder soak for 30-40 minutes. I poured the mixture onto a folded paper towel and the horn had good color. I wrapped it in the towel to rinse off the excess dye...soak, squeeze, repeat a bunch of times. Apparently 220 grit horn powder will pass right through a wet paper towel, that idea went down the drain

Quit messin around, get ya some hair dye.

Mix up a half batch in a plastic bag, drop your scales in for a few hours. ( no kiddin ). Rinse, steel wool, for satin finish. Polish/ Buff, for high shine.






Its cheep.!

That's what I'm working with. I was trying to dye the horn powder I was going to mix with the epoxy for filling bug bites (same idea as your bog oak dust). Then I was going to soak the whole thing in dye. I've got a couple of test batches for filling the bites drying. One I put some dye into the epoxy, and the other crushed charcoal. Right now I think the charcoal will be the winner.

Actually, wooden matches work well. Burn the match, remove the head, crush the burnt wood.

Or just ask me for some big oak, dust. Got plenty.



Charcoal will work too.

Thanks for the offer, if you want to send some I'll be happy to try it for a future project.

I think the charcoal will work well. It's giving a nice black color and hasn't messed with the cure time. It's a little grainy, but I didn't grind it super fine, just smacked it with a hammer a few times. I'll run it through a mortar and pestle for the real fix.

The dye seems to have slowed the cure time for the epoxy and the color is purple when thin. I'll know for sure tomorrow. Oh, and this dye isn't a two part box dye. It's something called a pot dye my daughter told me about. It's premixed and stable for unknown amounts of time. Kind of a paste consistency. You can mix it with water or smear it on as the paste. $10 for a good size jar, probably get 20+ scale pairs from a jar. And as a bonus it smells like grape jelly . I haven't entirely decided if I'll use this or a box dye for the final soak. The purple tint makes me hesitate a bit.

The top left is the charcoal mix

When i used the dye that Outback talks about i was a little worried as it too is purple when you use it. But in the end it was black.

Originally Posted by JellyJar

Thanks for the offer, if you want to send some I'll be happy to try it for a future project.

I think the charcoal will work well. It's giving a nice black color and hasn't messed with the cure time. It's a little grainy, but I didn't grind it super fine, just smacked it with a hammer a few times. I'll run it through a mortar and pestle for the real fix.

The dye seems to have slowed the cure time for the epoxy and the color is purple when thin. I'll know for sure tomorrow. Oh, and this dye isn't a two part box dye. It's something called a pot dye my daughter told me about. It's premixed and stable for unknown amounts of time. Kind of a paste consistency. You can mix it with water or smear it on as the paste. $10 for a good size jar, probably get 20+ scale pairs from a jar. And as a bonus it smells like grape jelly . I haven't entirely decided if I'll use this or a box dye for the final soak. The purple tint makes me hesitate a bit.

The top left is the charcoal mix

Maybe leave out the dye. Just epoxy and filler of choice, let cure, sand to shape, steel wool to smooth it out. Then dye it.

That's how I do my horn repairs. Then soak um in Neatsfoot oil, of course.

PM me your address, I'll see if I can get some out to you tomorrow. I'm off work this Wednesday, my list of tadoo's for this winter are done, and I've still got some cash left over. Sooo, a bit of hunting in the wilds for the day, is in order.

Got my maps. Northern and Central/Southern, Ohio.
I'll be sticking with the best ones I've been to, in the northern section of the state.





Every red dot, indicates a antique store, or mall.

The malls are usually quite large. Like indoor flea markets, but harder to hagle prices. The owners of the mall make a percentage off the dealers that rent their spaces. Rarely is the seller there, so your dealing with the owners of the store. But they will contact the seller, if you have a legit offer.

I like the smaller stores. Prices are cheaper, and I can scan through them quicker, which means I can cover more miles and stores, in a shorter period of time.

The nice part about razors, is here in Ohio, bladed objects must be in a locked case. So all you need to look for is the glass cases. Brushes, strops n mugs, could be anywhere, so they get looked for after the razors.