Thread: Restoring a Cheap Antique Shop Razor

What they said. Plus, speaking for myself, I just don't want to see you get discouraged with one.that might be beyond what you already know how to correct. That's all. But, I took on projects that were beyond my skill set early on and I further ruined some blades that were already junk and it didn't stop me. People told me the same things and I didn't know why at the time.
If you want to work on it then do it. You can't hurt it really.

This is what Jerry is talking about:

Obviously the lines are not clean but they follow the curves he's referring to. You see how the shape of the blue line doesn't match the shape of the yellow line? The edge needs to be corrected and actually I disagree with him a little. In this pic it does look like that blade has a slight frown.


Now look at where the red lines are pointing.


This is what Mike is talking about. The stabilizer is hitting the stone in these places. It should never do that. It may have always had problems with the geometry.but it also has been honed to death. It can be corrected but you are going to have to regrind those curves and that plane that the farthest left line points to.

Also look at how the bevel width changes toward the toe. As you draw the razor along the stone the spine near the toe can spend more time on the stone than near the heal. That causes it to thin and throw your bevel angle off. You will need.to check the thickness of the spine and maybe correct it to get the right bevel angle: 17°-20° but preferably somewhere near the middle of that range but hopefully evenly along the length.
There are some good posts that show how to determine bevel angle.

Those are a.few things you will definitely need to fix and there may be more. You'll have to see how it plays out. Funny: a razor seems so simple but there is really quite a bit to their geometry and getting them to work correctly.