Thread: A few questions about greaseless compounds

Nuttin I can really add. I use the sisal up to the 320 and then the sewn for the 400 and 600. I use sewn for the rest up to the pink finishing on a loose wheel.

I am only using 1100 and 1800 rpm though.

Lynn

Nice bit of info in this thread ,thanks guys.

I just got done applying some glu-tite to 4 ss cotton wheels, and also attempted to glu-tite a couple od sisal wheels. The glu-tie does not like sisal wheels, it doesnt seem to apply at all. I got it on the cotton alright, had to put it on at high speed(2800-3000 rpm?), the brake technique after stopping the motor wasnt really working.

so i guess the glu-tite aint meant for sisal, i will try appllying just greaseless to it and see how that goes, as greaseless does seem sllightly less gelatinous.


I think my setup will look like this ,
80 on sisal
120 on glu on ss cotton
180 on glu on ss cotton
240 on glu on ss cotton
400 on glu on ss cotton
Black on sisal
white on ss cotton
Stainless on sisal or ss cotton?
cro ox on ss cotton

I might switch some of the lower grit greasless to sisal at a later stage, tho ive already got glu on 4 cotton wheels right now.

one thing im not really sure of is wheither the white bar goes before the stainless bar or vice versa. I ordered from casewell so my stainless bar is giant and pale green opposed to the smaller darker cro ox. Its the basic stainless steel bar. And the white one is just basic white rouge.

Originally Posted by GregJDS

one thing im not really sure of is wheither the white bar goes before the stainless bar or vice versa.

White comes after SS at least all the ones I have used.

Black/SS/White/Green

this is my first attempt...
compound pictures by GregSheehan - Photobucket

As you can see it appears that sisal wheels dont like glu-tite
was i not supposed to try that one?

i got glu-tite on 4 cotton wheels and that was the first attempt at adding greaseless. I was wondering if one of you could chime in and say correct or incorrect. There are gaps in the coat as you can see, not sure if thats normal and will even out later.

Originally Posted by GregJDS

I was wondering if one of you could chime in and say correct or incorrect.

One thing I can tell you for sure. None of my wheels have ever looked like any of your pictures. I never had gaps when applying the greaseless.

I apply them at 1800 RPM and go from left to right and vise versa while using some pressure against my wheel. I do this in increments until the whole surface of the wheel is nicely and densely coated. I then let it dry enough time before using it.

Hmmm, thats interesting. My wheels turned out like Gregs initially. I thought maybe they were supposed to be that way-- there are alot of warnings about over applying compounds, so I figured the greaseless might be in the same boat. Anyway, I melted some of the compounds in the microwave and applied more while it was soft, but not a thick even coat, which I plan to do now. Maybe this batch is off or something. But then again, I was having a similar problems with the rouges I got.

And its not the glu tite doing that, Greg, I didn't get any of that stuff.

Question ???

I notice the "spin on" arbor does anyone that is getting good coverage use that style of arbor???

I use the arbor with a bolt to tighten on the wheel...

GregJDS;

Regarding the way your sisal wheel glue-ups look in the photo...

I think that when you are rolling the wheel in the glue those clumps of fibers sticking out are preventing the wheel from contacting the wheel cement (and then the abrasive in the following step) evenly.

So here is a little tip: Take a pair of wire cutters (the side cutting variety) and give your wheel a little 'hair cut'. Trim away any bunches of fibers which stand proud of the surface of the wheel. Doing this will return you to a more-or-less even surface for that wheel. Following that, your glue/abrasive applications should go a whole lot better.

Of course, you will have to keep up with this 'hair cutting' thing. In my experience, as one wears the sisal wheel, new clumps of fibers will spring up and out. It is up to you to decide how much is allowable (and where).

- Ignatz


PS I use spin-ons (pigtails) and am doing OK so far, but others may have differing results. Also, for the record, all of my wheels (sisal, spiral-sewn cotton and loose cotton) are not only through-sewn, but also leather reinforced on both sides at the center. I would believe this to make a real difference if using the pigtails.

Ahh right ok..
in regards to what Piet said thats intersteing, Microwaving the ones ive already done to even out the coat before another coat, I tried a hairdryer but that didnt melt it just dried it...
Microwave should keep some moisture in tho.
I guess that solves the problem of what to do with the batch ive already done.

In regards to what ignatz said, I will definitly be folloiwing the advice on the sisals, i think im ight try it wihtout the glu-tite becuase it seems not to like it becuase its softer than regualr greaseless.

Also you mentioning the bolsters on your wheels is probably exactly what the main problem is, i need to get the wheels with the leather supports and bolts, and i need to make some for my wheels, i reckon 3 strong bolts and some circular leather or some other good support material.
(I realise im gonna have to be careful to construct it well if its going on something rotating with that kind of force.)

Will report back later...

Thank you all V/R

I soak/saturate the area around the hole in the buff with shellac or glue to stiffen it up, to keeps it from spinning too far onto the spin type of arobrs. It makes hard surface/center hole in the soft wheel,

Charlie