Thread: A few questions about greaseless compounds

my compound is only a few days old, no way its dry, that is how it looked the day I got it from caswell and opened it. Even of the spread of compound on there is light, why would I get deeper scratches? It doesn't make sense

What direction are you buffing ???

Spine to Edge - vs Toe to Heel

I have not done any razors yet, because i'm not comfortable with it. Just different knives and tools around the house. I'm afraid to screw up a razor, but generally I do most my buffing heel to toe style.
I'm thinking maybe you guys are right and I got a bad load of compound that is dried out and its causing clump ups. Its just crazy if you look at those earlier pics of how deeply its scratching. Hopefully caswell will send me a new piece of salami. I'm ganna take your guys advice, buy smaller wheels, with a new piece of compound.

I just polished a piece of stainless from the 600-greasey-emery-white and its a mirror shine, but all those freakin sparkly pits won't polish out, I would have this down perfectly if it wasn't for this issue. Tomorrow I am ordering all new compound, new wheels, spiral and seisel in smaller sizes, buying the glue tite for wheel prep, an 1100 rpm buffer plus. Spending a few hundred bucks on this.... so after I purchase all this stuff this better work! lol Thanks guys

With geaseless you are actually almost Grinding..

Would you take a 600 grit belt and run it Toe to Heel ???

Originally Posted by gssixgun

With geaseless you are actually almost Grinding..

Would you take a 600 grit belt and run it Toe to Heel ???

huh? I don't know, perhaps. I wouldn't use a belt sander on the razor. Has nothing to do with direction, like I said I haven't done it on razors at all. If you flip back a page or 2 yu'll see whats going on. I just can't get the compound to work on anything without creating all these little pits everywhere.
When I polish, I change buffing directions at times, but I do most of my polish buffing toe to heel, I kinda took that form Lynns video. I'm not sure what your question is supposed to mean? It seems like a rhetorical one! Can you just tell me what your trying to tell me? Please look at my pics before deciding i'm grinding the wrong the direction! Thank you for the help

Originally Posted by glytch5

huh? I don't know, perhaps. I wouldn't use a belt sander on the razor. Has nothing to do with direction, like I said I haven't done it on razors at all. If you flip back a page or 2 yu'll see whats going on. I just can't get the compound to work on anything without creating all these little pits everywhere.
When I polish, I change buffing directions at times, but I do most of my polish buffing toe to heel, I kinda took that form Lynns video. I'm not sure what your question is supposed to mean? It seems like a rhetorical one! Can you just tell me what your trying to tell me? Please look at my pics before deciding i'm grinding the wrong the direction! Thank you for the help

Lynn is not using grease-less compound in that video, he is using a buffing compound.
I did not read the whole thread but what steel is that in your pics?

I know he wasn't... just saying.
There is a mixture, in some of the pics there is carbon from a kitchen blade, some is stainless from a kitchen blade. Both were pit free.
I finally got the compound to sort of work... I applied some to a hard felt dremel wheel... while it was very hard to get consistent cuts on the pice, I did not get nearly as much haze and pitty things. I'm thinking because i'm using SS wheels, any bits of fur are coming crashing into my piece along with the rest of the wheel causing these streaks and big smash pit holes. If that is the case, is a seisal wheel going to act any better? Perhaps it was the dremel tool spinning slower as well.
Here is a stainless kitchen knife I just polishes earlier up to white rouge, you can see the wicked sparkling effect.

Like I was saying to gun up there, I will not dare touch this stuff to a razor until I figure out how to do this without the "issue"

You have to rake and trim your wheels of loose threads or the compound will never go on smooth, and your compound is too dry.

Once on the wheel, if you touch it, it will come off on your finger and it should not move the buffer when applying. It should be soft and sticky. And yes it will splatter when applying, make a splatter guard.

You have to re-hydrate your compound and trim your wheels, you do not need new compound or a new buffer.

Originally Posted by glytch5

I know he wasn't... just saying.

it makes a big difference, buffing compounds work that way just fine.

There is a mixture, in some of the pics there is carbon from a kitchen blade, some is stainless from a kitchen blade. Both were pit free.
I finally got the compound to sort of work... I applied some to a hard felt dremel wheel... while it was very hard to get consistent cuts on the pice, I did not get nearly as much haze and pitty things. I'm thinking because i'm using SS wheels, any bits of fur are coming crashing into my piece along with the rest of the wheel causing these streaks and big smash pit holes. If that is the case, is a seisal wheel going to act any better? Perhaps it was the dremel tool spinning slower as well.
Here is a stainless kitchen knife I just polishes earlier up to white rouge, you can see the wicked sparkling effect.

Like I was saying to gun up there, I will not dare touch this stuff to a razor until I figure out how to do this without the "issue"

I was wondering if you are dealing with subpar steel that results in this effect. I'd advise to get a cheap razor to buff and see how it turns out.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

You have to rake and trim your wheels of loose threads or the compound will never go on smooth, and your compound is too dry.

Once on the wheel, if you touch it, it will come off on your finger and it should not move the buffer when applying. It should be soft and sticky. And yes it will splatter when applying, make a splatter guard.

You have to re-hydrate your compound and trim your wheels, you do not need new compound or a new buffer.

my wheels are raked! THEIR RAKED THEIR RAKED!!!!! They come pre raked and i've raked! So greaseless should feel real squishy? Mine has a tiny bit of give to it, but for the most part its pretty stiff.... i'm ganna try hydrating some overnight in the water.

mainaman as far as steel goes, i'm ganna try on something more expensive and see what it does. Do you think a 12c27 Opinel would be a good thing to try it on?
The first steel I did it on was a vintage Sabatier. No luck