Thread: A few questions about greaseless compounds

Just wondering if anyone buys they're supplies online and if so where? I havn't been able to find any greaseless compound in Aus, and the hardware stores here have no idea...

Cheers
Shannon

Caswells in OZ

Caswell Australia - Plating Kits, Powder Coating, Metal Polishing

Yo should be able to get greaseless from your local gun smith. He may have to order it and you may want to check out the brand. I started with greaseless from a gunsmith who ordered me some Brownells BROWNELLS : POLISH-O-RAY® - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

It is different than the Caswell stuff but works fine.

I'm scratching the surface of this topic (pun intended ) Here is the website for the company that a friend of mine gets his polishing medium from. He says it is great stuff.

Thanks for the link Jimmy. Looks like you can find most of what you would need with them. If they are local, even better in that you can save on shipping.

Originally Posted by spazola

I soak/saturate the area around the hole in the buff with shellac or glue to stiffen it up, to keeps it from spinning too far onto the spin type of arobrs. It makes hard surface/center hole in the soft wheel,

Charlie

Fantastic idea. Thanks for that, Charlie.

Okay perhaps a dumb question but I can't seem to get this right. What compound do you need after 600 greaseless? I've tried my stropman coarse black, and its too big a jump, i've tried this old ryobi black, and its as coarse of not coarser than the greaseless 600...
my black white n green can give a huge shine, but not after the 600 grit greaseless... what do I get to bridge the gab from caswell?
Do I need their black "emery"?
I am using all loose flop wheels, because its what I like. I've tried tighter sewn wheels and the effect for me is the same. What can can I do to bridge the gab from 600 to pre polishing? Anyone? Thanks.

A sisal wheel is recommended after greaseless compound. I can't help with the makes or colours because they differ over here but straight after greaseless move to a high cut/low polish compound on a sisal then move up from there to the next compound on a tight stitch before moving further on with floppy wheels.

The general rule is the higher the cut the stiffer the wheel. If you search the Carswell site for their downloadable instructions I think they say the same. I just wish we could get 600 grit greaseless over here - the maximum I can get is 400 grit and the sisal wheel works fine after that.

those sisal wheels produce way too much heat for my super fast buffer. I was watching Lynns video with dark spot, and I noticed last night at the end of it he said after greaseless he would go into hand sanding, then buffing? DOes that make sense?

Originally Posted by glytch5

those sisal wheels produce way too much heat for my super fast buffer. I was watching Lynns video with dark spot, and I noticed last night at the end of it he said after greaseless he would go into hand sanding, then buffing? DOes that make sense?

I guess what Lynn does is move further up the grits to remove the 600 scratch marks - before using polishing compounds - that's if you want to go for a mirrored finish.

Regarding your buffer - if the sisal gets too hot how do you handle lower grit greaseless? Remember you can reduce wheel size as well - that reduces surface speed of the wheel. I use 3 and 4" wheels for polishing.