Thread: Bread Knifing???

I knew I should just ask the experts before I messed up.I appreciate all your input and the forum itself,their is such a wealth of knowledge in the experience all the members have and the ease in which they share.Thanks again.

Just curious, if you're forced to breadknife, do you pretty much have to hit up a 220 or DMT in order to start setting the bevel again? Or can you start out at the 1k?

gssixgun, I remember you saying in another thread that you can sometimes start setting a bevel at a 45 degree angle, then a 30 then with a few layers of tape, then removing tape as you go along.

I was just wondering what grit stone you use and how much pressure along the way.

Originally Posted by thorxes

Just curious, if you're forced to breadknife, do you pretty much have to hit up a 220 or DMT in order to start setting the bevel again? Or can you start out at the 1k?

gssixgun, I remember you saying in another thread that you can sometimes start setting a bevel at a 45 degree angle, then a 30 then with a few layers of tape, then removing tape as you go along.

I was just wondering what grit stone you use and how much pressure along the way.

A lot more steel has to be removed after breadknifing, so a DMT or coarse hone will speed up the job, but a 1k will work just fine too.

The 45/30 degree angle can be used to remove chips in the same manner as breadknifing but with the advantage of not ending up with a completely blunt edge. This allows bevel setting to be done faster after the chips are removed. I really don't think anyone should breadknife at a 90 degree angle, or if they do, then they should transition to lower angles as the chip is nearly removed.

Originally Posted by Utopian

A lot more steel has to be removed after breadknifing, so a DMT or coarse hone will speed up the job, but a 1k will work just fine too.

The 45/30 degree angle can be used to remove chips in the same manner as breadknifing but with the advantage of not ending up with a completely blunt edge. This allows bevel setting to be done faster after the chips are removed. I really don't think anyone should breadknife at a 90 degree angle, or if they do, then they should transition to lower angles as the chip is nearly removed.

I could not agree more. I try to demonstrate the 45/30 angle at every get together I go to. Depending on the type of repair you are doing, this method really works great on both the 220 and the 1K stones. The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

I could not agree more. I try to demonstrate the 45/30 angle at every get together I go to. Depending on the type of repair you are doing, this method really works great on both the 220 and the 1K stones. The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Have fun,

Lynn

Do you feel the amount of pressure used at the 220 level is a matter of personal preference, or should you be putting some decent pressure at this stage to remove metal at a faster rate; especially since you're not worried about sharpness/keeness at this point or more about the actual bevel shape.

Originally Posted by thorxes

Do you feel the amount of pressure used at the 220 level is a matter of personal preference, or should you be putting some decent pressure at this stage to remove metal at a faster rate; especially since you're not worried about sharpness/keeness at this point or more about the actual bevel shape.

There is definitely an amount of personal preference when it comes to the pressure you use. I use a fair amount when I am doing this exercise.

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

I use a fair amount when I am doing this exercise.

"A fair amount."

Lynn has a great way of demonstrating what he considers to be a "fair amount" of pressure. He takes his calloused knob that used to be a thumb and presses down on your poor unsuspecting thumb and proceeds to crush every corpuscle out of it.

New honers here read all the warnings about little to no pressure when honing, but this is in the later stages. When setting the bevel, using a "fair amount" of pressure is just fine!

Originally Posted by Lynn

The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Lynn, I don't know if you saw it, but I brought a 90rpm wet grinder to the MidMo meetup. That works great for major chip removal and still allows for a relatively low angle.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Lynn, I don't know if you saw it, but I brought a 90rpm wet grinder to the MidMo meetup. That works great for major chip removal and still allows for a relatively low angle.

It is a great tool Ron!!

Originally Posted by thorxes

Just curious, if you're forced to bread knife, do you pretty much have to hit up a 220 or DMT in order to start setting the bevel again? Or can you start out at the 1k?

gssixgun, I remember you saying in another thread that you can sometimes start setting a bevel at a 45 degree angle, then a 30 then with a few layers of tape, then removing tape as you go along.

I was just wondering what grit stone you use and how much pressure along the way.

I have been using a variation of this for about 1 year I am hoping to catch it on video at the Spokane meet this coming Sunday..
We took pictures of it at the Denver meet in July but they just don't show enough... I use a well worn DMT 325 and Lather/Soapy water...
You can take out a 1/8 in chip in about 15 minutes then be done honing 15 minutes later ...Or thereabouts.. Now this works great for chips, but Frowns and double Frowns (Wowies) I still do a straight down bread knife...

Edit: Just to set the record straight here, (pun intended) if you breadknife correctly you lose absolutely NO more steel than any other technique out there, in fact if you do it right, you lose less...