Thread: New Restoration Project

Hi guys
I bought this recently and am getting ready to attempt a restoration. This razor has genuine Tortoise scales; so I have been told. I am wondering if I should remove the scales prior to trying to work on this blade any further. I have been using a yellow radial dremel disk with gradual success. I wonder if I should be going coarser or keep grinding away. One of the pins is rusty, but the blade fits nice and tight in the scales. Any thoughts as to how I should proceed would be appreciated. Bill; would you take the blade out?

Originally Posted by Korndog

Any thoughts as to how I should proceed would be appreciated.

Send it to Bill. He'll know what to do.

Beautiful razor Larry, keep us posted as you progress.
Ed

Originally Posted by Joe Lerch

Send it to Bill. He'll know what to do.

Yeah but I got all this cool stuff from Bill so's I could restore 'em muself. I've only ruined one so far. I have a peening hammer, micro-shear, vice, and tons of dremel goodies. I can grind the bevel off of anything!

Originally Posted by Korndog

I can grind the bevel off of anything!

That's what I was thinking of looking at that beauty.

I would really love tosee how you do on it. My biggest problem is still the rust stains, so thisone would be a disaster for me.

Originally Posted by Joe Lerch

That's what I was thinking of looking at that beauty.

I would really love tosee how you do on it. My biggest problem is still the rust stains, so thisone would be a disaster for me.

Yeah, I'm a little nervos. I'm not going anywhere near htat edge yet.

I am removing all material that Lerch may find offensive or construe as a personal attack... bye bye, now...

Originally Posted by urleebird

Larry...
It doesn't look too bad so far. You need to quit running abrasives parallel to the spine, though. Perpendicular, only. That's the way razors are ground. Use at least 3 of the yellow radial bristle discs on one mandrel to help things along. Keep the cutting edge flush against a flat surface while you are working on it. Make a wooden template that will hold the razor without causing stress on the blade or scales. It's called wood carving. Then inlay some strong round magnets in the wood where the blade would rest.
You are borderline for removing the scales. If you can do it with confidence... do it.

I just now saw this post. I don't know why the forum shows it as read. Thanks Bill.
The yellow wheels seemed to stop working, so I went to the grey fiber wheel, which did not remove anything. I didn't get a chance to stack them as I didn't see this post. I tried the brown wheel and this seemed to work best. I have been keeping the edge nice and tight against my wood work surface. I have not taken it to the very edge. There seems to be some pitting on the blade that showed up after removing the black stains. Here's another shot after 30 minutes or so with the brown fiber wheel. Yes, I have heard of wood carving . I think I will try and make a form. Thanks again Bill!

I am removing all material that Lerch may find offensive or construe as a personal attack... bye bye, now...

Originally Posted by Korndog

I have been keeping the edge nice and tight against my wood work surface. I have not taken it to the very edge. There seems to be some pitting on the blade that showed up after removing the black stains. Here's another shot after 30 minutes or so with the brown fiber wheel. Yes, I have heard of wood carving .

It's starting to look good!

Something I figure out to deal with the problem of the razor edge is to place a bar magnet(s) under the edge so as to extend along it. It puls the blade flat. Then, all you need to do is make sure that the razor edge doesn't protrude past the edge of the magnet. THen the edge is protected by the magnet, and so are your hands. If you put the magnet down on a metal surface, the blade will stay in place and you can work with two hands.

I got cheap bar magnets at Sears ($2) and put them edge to edge to fit the entire edge.