Thread: Sleeving or filling an oversized pivot hole

Jbweld is epoxy, bulked out with calcium carbonate, and iron powder. It is good for lots of things.




Charlie

I would think copper tubing would be a bad idea without something to protect it from the steel. I'm not sure about razor steel, but generally the 2 metals will cause a reaction and it will eat away at it. If this happens(and it won't take long if it does, especially with water added) your pivot hole could end up even bigger, and ruin your razor. Just get the brass or steel tubing to be safe.

Originally Posted by burns420

I would think copper tubing would be a bad idea without something to protect it from the steel. I'm not sure about razor steel, but generally the 2 metals will cause a reaction and it will eat away at it. If this happens(and it won't take long if it does, especially with water added) your pivot hole could end up even bigger, and ruin your razor. Just get the brass or steel tubing to be safe.

Exactly right... the same reason they use a Dielectric Union or Insulating Flange

It will happen with any steel. Even Stainless which is specifically designed to prevent or slow down corrosion/oxidation.

If it is kept dry, it will happen very slowly. Electrolytic corrosion (also known as galvanic corrosion) rates are sort of difficult to determine due to variability in the metal properties and environments.

just to add one more thing to the confusion
for irregular holes you can use bigger brass rod and peen that into the hole
then drill that out

Originally Posted by janivar123

just to add one more thing to the confusion
for irregular holes you can use bigger brass rod and peen that into the hole
then drill that out

Yes, that is a great fix too!!! a bit more work, just make sure the brass is level with the steel...

Hi,

For sleeving a reasonably round pivot hole, I use some of the plastic pipes/spouts you get with some aerosol cans. The one from a B-55 compressed gas dusting can is high density polythene, and is just the right size for use with straights. It is easily cut to length, and is 'slippy' in feel.

Works a treat

Have fun !

regards

Russ

Originally Posted by burns420

I would think copper tubing would be a bad idea without something to protect it from the steel. I'm not sure about razor steel, but generally the 2 metals will cause a reaction and it will eat away at it. If this happens(and it won't take long if it does, especially with water added) your pivot hole could end up even bigger, and ruin your razor. Just get the brass or steel tubing to be safe.

I wouldn't worry about it. nevermind that brass is a dissimilar metal, copper alloy, just read 2knives' link: "Galvanic corrosion tends to occur when dissimilar conducting materials are connected electrically and exposed to an electrolyte. "

If the hole in the blade hasn't become enlarged by corrosion or wear, then perhaps using the same size pin as the original maker isn't such a bad thing. After all, it's been like that since it was made and before most of us were around. Another alternative,perhaps, is to gauge the hole in the blade and procure the correct sized pin.

Originally Posted by BingoBango

Glen:

You brought up irregular pivot holes, and I've got a Torrey that has that exact problem. This is an old model that used by a barber and now I've got a large egg shaped hole. I was gonna run out to grab the tubing, but I'm wondering if that'll even work.

Here is a photo. That is a 1/16" adjustable pin for reference.

Thanks for any tips!

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Ok I'll explain,

These older Sheffields were actually punched instead of drilled, or so the story goes IIRC Alex found that out for us...
They were not that big when they were punched if you look closely you will find that the irregular hole has worn over the years, because it is "irregular" and had the slop to begin with... You need to take apart a few NOS 100+ year old razors to learn this fact, and that is the problem there are just not to many of them out there, so most of what you see is the effect of all that wear and tear...
These holes should never be tight but they also should not be so loose as they allow slop...
You can leave it, there are no rules here, but leaving it allows slop to creep into your system so later down the line don't be surprised when the blade starts to hit things.. Just starting out it also allows the pin to bend way easier too, so yes it does behoove you to fix it while you have it apart...

As always the choice is with the restorer... we can only post what we have found to be the best fixes we have found so far to date...

My personal rule of thumb is, if I can fit the sleeve in there, it needs one, but that is JMHO....

I should also point out the opposite fix too, that you could also just use a larger pin....

Originally Posted by BingoBango

I guess I misread Glen's post, and originally I didn't think Max wasn't being sarcastic, I just offered that up in case I was wrong. I take all of the advice I get from you guys, or anyone else on this forum, very seriously and at a bare minimum use it as a starting point for my work. I realize you can't solve everyone's problems over the forum, but keep in mind some of this is foreign and new, so if I push back a little it's just my way of finding the "why" behind the "how" is all. None of this is in vain though.

As for the real issue here: I saw a bit of a conflict in the decided course of action on irregular, straight pivot holes. You can 1) leave it, 2) fit a tube in there, or 3) drill out to a wider symmetrical hole and put a tube in that. My question is what are your determining factors for choosing between options #2 and #3? My thinking is, I don't want a wiggly, imperfect finished razor so #1 is out. I don't want scales that have some problem that'll cause them to fall apart later, so a sleeve on a crooked hole is out. I don't want to weaken the razor to the point of failure, so drilling a big hole is questionable. And I'd rather not go all the way up to 1/8" rod for aesthetic reasons, so I've got to figure a way to get a small peg in a big hole snugly.

My tentative plan is to go up to Metalliferous and futz around with the tubes they have hoping something works. If I find a round tube that fits in this oblong hole snug, then I'll skip the drilling and do that to minimize the possibility of weakening the tang. If I don't I'll go with option #3 and I'll measure across the longest span of the hole, find a tube with that OD and a 1/16" ID, drill to the OD size, and sleeve it. Sorta seems like I just pieced your advice together from the other posts, but I want to make sure.

Again, thanks in advance for any tips! As always, they're very much appreciated.

I have used your posts quoted with my posts to point out the fix...

Your Torrey is an exception to my rule really just because the hole is SO irregular, that is one that I would probably use an epoxy on, even though I am not that partial to it's use.. Without having it in my hands I have to use just what I see in your pics..

Also that line where you say snugly??? I never said the sleeve should ever fit tight, many of them do not, in fact in the thread I did about how to fix these, if you look very close at that pic you will see that the tube DOES NOT fit snugly into the old hole...
The object of this is to make things better, with a simple easy fix, which is why I seriously don't understand the huge flap about this thread...I mean seriously some of you are actually debating whether to take 5 minutes and add a spacer to take up excess slop, that actually amazes me...

BTW your scales will not "Fall apart" but depending on the tolerance you build with, you can start to have problems as soon as the pins start to loosen up, which all pins loosen up...



Edit: Phatman was posting as I was, but his idea above might also be a viable option for your Torrey....Great idea BTW Russ !!

Originally Posted by burns420

Not sure if this has been mentioned since I haven't read all this thread's posts, but for the odd shaped, oval holes Ive used "tube springs" with great results. Not sure the exact name, it's basically a 1/8", or 3/16" tube with a slit cut out running the length of the tube. They are slightly larger than their indicated sizes until they are compressed, then they fit tightly into the holes with no play. No drilling or filling with resin required. They are available at home depot in the hardware section, in the "specialty" hardware bins that are usually above the regular bolts and screws. Works very well for me.

Known as "roll pins" seen here . I use them in armature bars in tattoo machines. I can't believe how big this thread got.