Thread: Sleeving or filling an oversized pivot hole

To be completely honest, I never usually do anything to an oversized pivot hole. Sometimes doing something will help, sometimes it will hurt it, but most of the time it makes no difference. If you are having problems with the blade centering 9 times out of 10 the problem has nothing to do with the pivot being oversized but with a different problem on the razor or scales. If the blade is moving because of too much 'slop' or whatever, it may be the pivot hole, but really, I can't remember this ever being a problem for me.

Each guy has his own fixes and opinions. It's useless to argue a point with no correct answer. It's EASIEST for the man with the problem to try to figure out the fix that works best for him. Sometimes all of our opinions mixed together will just confuse rather than help.

I am always up for learning a new way. Another arrow, dont ya know. I can diagnose that we all enjoy this stuff. At the time it sure seemed like my op was real question I wanted to know. the handle is made all sorts of do-dads; washers, bushings, wedges, spreaders, yet there was no piece through the tang.

"I think it makes it a little bit better" is good enough reason.

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In the interests of sharing; there is a simple technique used to conserve sword fittings that is perfect for angled holes.

It's not the safest practice to drill into an existing hole without going up several sizes. And you cant do it with handtools.

Sekigane : soft metal forged to fit. The you drill a straight hole.

I guess I misread Glen's post, and originally I didn't think Max wasn't being sarcastic, I just offered that up in case I was wrong. I take all of the advice I get from you guys, or anyone else on this forum, very seriously and at a bare minimum use it as a starting point for my work. I realize you can't solve everyone's problems over the forum, but keep in mind some of this is foreign and new, so if I push back a little it's just my way of finding the "why" behind the "how" is all. None of this is in vain though.

As for the real issue here: I saw a bit of a conflict in the decided course of action on irregular, straight pivot holes. You can 1) leave it, 2) fit a tube in there, or 3) drill out to a wider symmetrical hole and put a tube in that. My question is what are your determining factors for choosing between options #2 and #3? My thinking is, I don't want a wiggly, imperfect finished razor so #1 is out. I don't want scales that have some problem that'll cause them to fall apart later, so a sleeve on a crooked hole is out. I don't want to weaken the razor to the point of failure, so drilling a big hole is questionable. And I'd rather not go all the way up to 1/8" rod for aesthetic reasons, so I've got to figure a way to get a small peg in a big hole snugly.

My tentative plan is to go up to Metalliferous and futz around with the tubes they have hoping something works. If I find a round tube that fits in this oblong hole snug, then I'll skip the drilling and do that to minimize the possibility of weakening the tang. If I don't I'll go with option #3 and I'll measure across the longest span of the hole, find a tube with that OD and a 1/16" ID, drill to the OD size, and sleeve it. Sorta seems like I just pieced your advice together from the other posts, but I want to make sure.

Again, thanks in advance for any tips! As always, they're very much appreciated.

I will drink to that, great post Alex,

Originally Posted by Philadelph

To be completely honest, I never usually do anything to an oversized pivot hole. Sometimes doing something will help, sometimes it will hurt it, but most of the time it makes no difference. If you are having problems with the blade centering 9 times out of 10 the problem has nothing to do with the pivot being oversized but with a different problem on the razor or scales. If the blade is moving because of too much 'slop' or whatever, it may be the pivot hole, but really, I can't remember this ever being a problem for me.

Each guy has his own fixes and opinions. It's useless to argue a point with no correct answer. It's EASIEST for the man with the problem to try to figure out the fix that works best for him. Sometimes all of our opinions mixed together will just confuse rather than help.

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Kevin,

How cool is that an eggbeater drill, on this forum. If I were to fix a hole that looks like a great method.


Charlie

Not sure if this has been mentioned since I haven't read all this thread's posts, but for the odd shaped, oval holes Ive used "tube springs" with great results. Not sure the exact name, it's basically a 1/8", or 3/16" tube with a slit cut out running the length of the tube. They are slightly larger than their indicated sizes until they are compressed, then they fit tightly into the holes with no play. No drilling or filling with resin required. They are available at home depot in the hardware section, in the "specialty" hardware bins that are usually above the regular bolts and screws. Works very well for me.

Im getting ready to do this too, would JB weld work as an epoxy?

Originally Posted by Philadelph

It's useless to argue a point with no correct answer. It's EASIEST for the man with the problem to try to figure out the fix that works best for him. Sometimes all of our opinions mixed together will just confuse rather than help.

In this case I was not confused and actually, throughout the discussion on this forum I have changed my mindset on whether or not to fix an over sized pivot hole on the tang. Here are my reasons that I see are most valid...

This

Originally Posted by gssixgun

and yes obviously if I am taking the razor apart to fix it I am a perfectionist.... Dave posted the links for you, the fix is so simple is is scary, in factIi probably could have done three in the time it took to do the math, just slip in a sleeve and be done with it, or do the epoxy thing, either works

this

Originally Posted by gssixgun

These older Sheffields were actually punched instead of drilled... These holes should never be tight but they also should not be so loose as they allow slop...
You can leave it, there are no rules here, but leaving it allows slop to creep into your system so later down the line don't be surprised when the blade starts to hit things.. Just starting out it also allows the pin to bend way easier too, so yes it does behoove you to fix it while you have it apart...

this

Originally Posted by Maximilian

For me the decision to use a sleeve becomes more an issue when dealing with a slightly crooked or bend tang. Adding a sleeve can be beneficial but sometimes it makes it even worse as the razor will end up touching the side of the scales even more.

I would however never use epoxy to fill the pivot hole.

and this

Originally Posted by Maximilian

...I've been through many of those exact same ones.
Trying to stick a tubing (aka sleeve) will not work with the remaining steel in the pivot hole unless you completely drill or tap out that hole making it easy to add a tubing (aka sleeve).
I don't or never used epoxy to fill that hole either. This is all just my advise so take it for what it's worth.

have all shed a bright light on how easy and logical it really is to do such a simple fix. Thank you all for making me, and hopefully others, a better straight razor restorationist... as this is solely the purpose of this sub-forum. Many thanks again for taking the time to give your opinions despite the opposition (including my own).

-2knives

Originally Posted by mrmaroon

Im getting ready to do this too, would JB weld work as an epoxy?

probably so... give it a try and let us know the results. You can always knock the stuff out of the hole if it isn't successful.

Originally Posted by kcarlisle

Has anyone ever tried using copper tubing instead of brass? I can't believe in a city of this size, I could not find 1/16" brass rod, nor can I find brass tubing. I wound up having to order the brass rod and just got it in this last week. I wish I would have ordered some tubing with it. Any way, I was able to find some copper tubing in the right size. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the copper?

Thanks!

you can try a hobbie store they should have a nice selection

Originally Posted by mrmaroon

Im getting ready to do this too, would JB weld work as an epoxy?

I've used JB weld on a couple of pivot holes. Just make sure you let it cure long enough.