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  1. #31
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevint View Post
    Leaving a raised dai on the scale is pretty awesome craftsman delux methodology- that is a really cool observation. I like that
    Here's that raised scale dais Kevin - along with a built in plug for a third pinning:





    Still a bit thicker than the old-style washers, though. The surface is roughened too for some reason - it would make the blade bind a little (friction again Jimmy - told you there was something in that idea... ) as well as maybe let water out a little easier - I don't really know...

    Regards,
    Neil

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  3. #32
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    FWIW (I'm new to this) --

    This thread is fascinating -- thanks to everyone. I'm sorry to revive it, but I have an new idea . . .

    Without washers, if the scales aren't perfectly parallel at the pivot, or the sides of the tang at the pivot aren't perfectly parallel, the frictional drag will vary when opening and closing the blade into the scales.

    Making the scales parallel, at the pivot, requires a wedge (or parallel spacer) inside the scales, between the razor shoulder and pivot (or molding-in the subtle curve, for molded-plastic scales). And some razors (many razors?) have a tang which gets thinner, from the pivot to the end.

    With washers (or raised "buttons" on the inside of molded scales), the frictional drag will be much more constant if the scales are not parallel, or the sides of the tang aren't parallel. All friction happens between the tang and the washers -- the non-parallelism is working over a much shorter distance, and the (negative) clearance between tang and washer is more nearly constant.

    I also suspect that the old washers were stamped. A stamped "flat washer" isn't flat. It has a slightly-rounded side, and a slightly-cupped side. If the slightly-cupped side is set against the (much softer) scales, it will lock into place against them when the pivot pin is peened and the joint comes under pressure.

    All movement -- and wear -- when the razor is opened and closed, will occur between the tang and the washer. "Metal-on-metal" will last longer than "metal on plastic". "Metal-on-metal" with a bit of oil will last a long, long time.

    Now I can get back to sleep. I know that I'm going to use washers (either manufactured, or hand-made) on my first re-scale.

    Thanks again --

    Charles

  4. #33
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpcohen1945 View Post
    I also suspect that the old washers were stamped. A stamped "flat washer" isn't flat. It has a slightly-rounded side, and a slightly-cupped side. If the slightly-cupped side is set against the (much softer) scales, it will lock into place against them when the pivot pin is peened and the joint comes under pressure.

    All movement -- and wear -- when the razor is opened and closed, will occur between the tang and the washer. "Metal-on-metal" will last longer than "metal on plastic". "Metal-on-metal" with a bit of oil will last a long, long time.

    Charles
    A good point Charles!

    I got fed-up with bashing down fat micro-fasteners washers to make them thinner and decided to stamp my own out of shim brass. As you say, one side is slightly dished, the other raised. It also made me realise why so many of the old washers are mis-shapen: they appear to have crescents cut out of the edges - from making my own the reason became clear - if you don't move the sheet of shim brass enough before stamping the next washer, it goes over the cut-out left by the last one to be stamped out.

    Regards,
    Neil

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