Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 38
Like Tree7Likes

Thread: Katana-Kagi (swordsmith) asking for input

  1. #1
    Member Danocon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    53
    Thanked: 28

    Default Katana-Kagi (swordsmith) asking for input

    Hello all,
    Actually this is the beginning of my first post on this forum on another tread.

    Since I am new here and this is my first post let me introduce myself. I am a bladesmith in Texas working in the Japanese tradition. I concentrate on swords (Katana, Wakazashi, Tanto etc.) But I have also done extensive work making woodworking planes.

    I am a complete newbie to straight razor shaving and I am certainly no expert on kamisori but I am working on making some kamisori and would like some input on what I know of crafting Japanese style blades and how kamisori may be similar or different.


    Kamasori, like almost all quality Japanese plane irons, chisels and many knives have a high carbon, hardenable steel insert forge welded to a low carbon soft steel or iron body.

    The argument that this saves the expensive steel for where it is needed is a good one. In times past, producing high carbon steel was time consuming and expensive proposition.

    There are other considerations as well, Having a soft steel substrate allows the cutting edge to be harder. The harder the steel the more prone it is to chipping-like glass. The soft steel or iron can help absorb and dissipate the forces that may otherwise chip the blade.

    After perusing many pages here and other sites I would say that a kamisori can be most likened to a plane blade. A katana is a much more romantic implement but it is meant for slicing through flesh and bone while at the same time being able to absorb the stress of combat.

    A plane blade is designed for shaving wood. Much as a kamisori is designed for shaving hair.

    One of the essential elements of a fine plane blade is a flat and polished back (Ura). The front (omote) side of the plane blade has a bevel. The angle of the bevel is governed by two constraints. A sharper angle allow the blade to penetrate the wood easier. A more obtuse angle makes for a stronger blade.

    Once the ura has been flattened and polished very little time is spent honing it later. 80-90% of the honing takes place on the omote bevel with the rest being used on the ura to simply help remove the wire edge.

    I see the same on a kamisori. Now the Ura may not look like a flat plane, but it is. The hollow is simply there as clearance and to facilitate a thinner edge. The important flat part is right at the edge.

    The most important angle is the angle of the back(ura) to the wood being plane. This is determined by the angle that the blade is bedded in the plane body. Hardwood planes are usually set at around 45 degrees softwood around 40 degrees.

    The bevel angle on the omote side cannot add up to 90 degrees. That is, if the blade is bedded at 45 degrees the omote bevel angle must be less than 45 degrees, usually way less or it will never cut. The bevel will ride on the wood never letting the edge dig in.

    A well tuned plane with a quality blade will sever the wood cells so that they refract light. A much more appealing finish than sandpaper and coats of varnish.

    So,
    How much of what I said above relates to a kamisori? What may be unique to a razor that does not correlate to shaving wood?

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Dan O'Connor

  2. #2
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I'd say the angle of approach to the beard does not have anything to do with thickness of the hair, but more with the direction of the hair growth.
    Obviously the bevels of the Kamisori meet at much smaller angle than a plane blade bevels.
    Stefan

  3. #3
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
    Posts
    7,285
    Thanked: 1936
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    If you have made plane blades, then a razor shouldn't be too bad. All you can do is give it a whirl and see. I'm not sure if you are making your own steel, but there are many western style razors made of the tool steels like O-1 & A-2 that I'm sure would work well as a kamisori as well.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  4. #4
    Member Danocon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    53
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    Thanks for the input guys.

    I have access to Aogami or Japanese blue steel and some old wrought iron. I will forge weld these together as well as using some monosteels as well to compare.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    7
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    I have zero technical knowledge or skills, but this is a super interesting read and please keep the updates comming!

  6. #6
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,131
    Thanked: 5229
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    Hello Dan, Welcome to SRP. I hope you'll like it here.
    I am always glad to see traditional craftsmen show up. I don't have a kamisori, so unfortunately, I cannot help you.
    Your explanation sounds correct, though we have some people who know kamisori in great detail. No doubt you will get detailed answers in a short while.

    I know this is perhaps not going to be directly relevant to your question, but it might be interesting in some other way: some people like kamisori style razors but don't like the ura / omote design. For such people, custom makers have made kamisori style razors with a symmetrical grind.
    Here you can find pictures of the one made for me by one of our members
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/strai...-straight.html
    baldy likes this.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  7. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    Welcome to SRP Dan. I'm moving this thread from 'razors' to 'workshop' where other razor makers are more likely to see it and respond.
    ScottGoodman likes this.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  8. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    EauClaire,WI
    Posts
    7,685
    Thanked: 3825
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Welcome! I am watching for more input from you!
    Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    - Oscar Wilde

  9. #9
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    miami,fl
    Posts
    577
    Thanked: 69

    Default

    welcome and subscribing to this thread....

  10. #10
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    2,746
    Thanked: 1014
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Dan, I would imagine that using a Kamisori would answer most of your questions in regards to angles and design. A kamisori made by an experienced smith, that is. Henkotsu, Tsurayuki, Iwasaki, et al.

    I can tell you, the blade angle of a Kamisori is far more acute than any plane blade.

    Also, in terms of Hitachi steel only Shirogami ever seems to be used by razor makers. I have it on good authority (the best, perhaps) that for razors, Swedish Assab steel is superior to White or Blue steel.

    Just my two cents.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •