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10-16-2011, 09:38 PM #1
I'm not certain what the etchant is for glass but ferric chloride works well for most steels. As long as the stencils will hold up to the ferric chloride that would probably work. Most polymers are non reactive with the ferric chloride.
Hope this is helpful.
Stu
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10-16-2011, 11:16 PM #2
I believe that hydrochloride etching is whats used on glass, I posted this in the "how do you make your mark" last week as an alternative to everyones branding and got no bites..... I am still curious to see how it will work.
One problem, I doubt that machine has the tollerance capability to create an intricate etch sized image...
I have problems making images that small with my industrial cutter...
It wouldnt hurt to give it a whirl, but the acid kit was 75$ ish and I already have my hands tied in 10 other projects LOL
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10-16-2011, 11:44 PM #3
You could always etch the way I did as a kid, making little medals and coins. Completely cover the metal in candle wax and scratch out your design with a needle. Soak it in vinegar overnight. The next morning pull it out and soak it in warm salt water. After an hour or so, pull it out of the salt water and watch it rust. Occasionally spray it down with water to keep it rusting. After awhile, remove the wax and polish the rust off of the blade. Should leave a nice little etch in the metal. Not sure if i'd actually do this on a razor, but it does work and works cheaply.
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10-17-2011, 09:55 AM #4
I use a method similar to Theseus, nail varnish(polish) an area bigger than what you want to etch. Get a big 9v lantern battery and some wire and alligater clips. Attatch the positive terminal to the steel and the negative to a piece of cotton wool(cotton balls) soaked in salt water(not dripping wet, give it a gentle squeeze first to get rid of excess water). Scratch your pattern in the varnish down to metal then gently dab the wet cotton wool on the scratched surface. Voila! Etched steel...
I just did this the other day as it has buffalo horn scales, hope this helps! Always good to have a play before you go to town on your actual piece.Last edited by Sasquatch; 10-17-2011 at 10:01 AM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Sasquatch For This Useful Post:
jeness (10-17-2011), regularjoe (10-21-2011)
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10-19-2011, 02:06 AM #5
A couple of thought come to mind when I read this thread
Firstly what a great idea
Next thought was what part of the razor you want to etch
Is it a Wedge or some other grind
I say this because I'm thinking you would need a flat surface
Hollow grind razors would certainly add to the difficulty of a great result
And of course the razor must remain totally still while you work
I wish you well in your venture
Just my 2 cents worth
I look forward to reading more on this thread
Rick
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10-19-2011, 02:32 AM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
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- Ponca City, Oklahoma
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Thanked: 66I hope to get a chance to have my mother print out a Stencil soon, but I think it could be a little while. I have an extended work trip to China soon, and have barely had time to work on my current restores. Much less add a new layer of complexity. I will definitely report back how it works as soon as I test.
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10-19-2011, 08:14 AM #7
Looking forward to seeing the results of a machine Sidmind, you could do a far more intricate etch with a machine than you could with my approach!
Rick- You're right about work surfaces and keeping the piece still, that was one of the reasons I posted the above method. It's a bit crude as you can see but it works on hollow grinds just as well. I suppose it all depends on what you want to etch and what your drawing skills are like. Mine are fairly limited so I tend to keep it simple!