Thread: Blade Geometry Help Required

Did I mention that blade was (is) a real hack job. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. I now make my razors at the speed of inspiration.

Jeff

Almost forgot, I left my blades around .030 to .040 inch ( .76 to 1.0 mm) thick at the edge and had zero warping.

Cheers for the info & encouragement.

Well bit of mixed fortunes at the moment, I have 2 lengths of steel on my desk, ready & waiting, CAD drawings complete, but the guy who was going to do the machining is flat out with updates for the next major car upgrade, so looks like he will only be able to machine 1, maybe 2 blanks and it wont be for a while. (but hey ho, patience is a virtue)

Apart from that I have sorted out the final geometry, so that I will only need to grind the back face on a 6" wheel and this will then give me the clearance as suggested and will leave me with a final 17-18° honed edge.

I have also sorted out the heat treatment which I should be able to do at home. I can source some tempil sticks (Temperature indicators) which should enable me to use a propane torch to heat up to 800°C accurately, and then I can temper the blade in the kitchen oven (when the wife is out of course )

Will be intersting to see how it all turns out, at the very least I will end up a nice looking blade that will just go on show, but in an ideal world it will look good and shave like a spanking new Dovo, only time will tell.

I kno this is an older thread, but just wondering if there were any updates? Also, I doubt you will be able to HT the O1 in open air with a propane torch, or even MAPP gas for that matter. optimal heat treat of O1 requires a soak time of 15-20 minutes at temperature, it will give an ok hardness with just a couple of minutes at temp and quenched in Canola oil, but I suggest you look up coffee can forge and two brick forge for simple inexpensive forge design which will help you get the most out of your propane torch. Have the oven pre heated to your tempering temperature (400-450*F) and immediately after quench and cooled down to 300*F or so go striaght into temper. 2 cycles of 2 hours each.

I am currently making my own kamisori from 1084 and just about done sanding before HT. Also, sounds like you are relying heavily on modern machinery, you know these things were around long before CAD and CNC... . Grab a file and hacksaw, some elbow grease and a six pack of your favorite brew, then have at it! Nothing wrong with a machined razor, but there sure is somethin special about a truely hand-made piece.

BTW, I learned a lot of valuable info from this thread!


-Xander

Originally Posted by fast14riot

I kno this is an older thread, but just wondering if there were any updates? Also, I doubt you will be able to HT the O1 in open air with a propane torch, or even MAPP gas for that matter. optimal heat treat of O1 requires a soak time of 15-20 minutes at temperature

+1 My first time with 01 I failed with a torch. One of our generous razor makers offered the advice that 1095 was better for torch ht, or as I now call it "hillbilly heat treating" lol