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Thread: Part of my new scales

  1. #51
    Senior Member JSmith1983's Avatar
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    I like the look of those scales. I'd like to know what they were made from too. Almost looks like a curly maple or curly something lol.

  2. #52
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    I got the last coat of tung oil to it I'm excited to pin it up

  3. #53
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    And also how long does it usually for the tung oil to completely dry

  4. #54
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Tung oil dries in essentially 48 hrs. Then it prefers another 3 days at least to cure. Sometimes, depending on humidity, even longer.

    If I'm working on a restore for someone, and I've got to do exotic wood with a tung finish, I'll make the scales before I start buffing the blade. That way they have lots of time to set up. Personally, I'd leave it for a couple days. Then after the cure, go back and buff it. If you don't have a buffer, get a cotton towel and rub as fast as you can!

    Did you apply tung straight, or did you burnish? I can't see the grain from the previous photos....is it a loose grain or a tight grain?

    Edit: Rosewood has lots of oils in it....for future reference, you can sand it up to 2k and then buff it out with white rouge to get a really nice and smooth finish.

  5. #55
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    I'm burnishing actually and can I use mini wax polyurethane semi gloss to seal it
    Last edited by Tylerbrycen; 05-27-2012 at 09:38 PM.

  6. #56
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    As above, your best bet in the future with any High oil content wood is just polish it,is better than any other product.

  7. #57
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Teak Oil is a very good choice for dense woods,,, Danish Oil and Tung Oil have their uses also.. (Most Tung Oil "finishes" are not just Tung Oil)

    IMHO if it is used for a razor, it should be treated. regardless of the wood, there are many that don't and that is their opinion...

    In general: Tighter grain wood, thinner consistency finish, bigger grained wood, thicker consistency finish, this is just a guide though...

    You might want to get in the habit now of an Acetone wipedown before starting the finshing process, it really helps with many woods, and hasn't hurt any yet..

    Getting a finish and waterproofing that you feel comfortable with takes time, as each new type of wood is a new challenge...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 05-28-2012 at 12:32 AM.
    Maxi likes this.

  8. #58
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    Thanks glen I appreciate ur advice I need to figure out what would be a good sealer for the type of wood I have

  9. #59
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I goto the Teak Oil for the dense oily woods, Which most Rosewoods are.. I have not used "Asian Rosewood" myself so as stated above you have too decide the wood is in your hands...

    Info

    South East Asian Rosewood
    Dalbergia Bariensis
    Few woods compare with Brazilian Rosewood as nicely as this one and it’s superb density has led many to claim that it is superior. Our sets feature tight grain, even color and all sets exhibit an extremely lively, sonorous tap tone. The color ranges from a warm brick-red (reminiscent of Honduran Rosewood) to an attractive rust-brown color. Less porous than most Rosewoods, it finishes nicely and is not difficult to bend for such a dense wood.

    So to me that sounds like the other Rosewoods

  10. #60
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    Well crap they broke I broke my scales very upsetting but what can u do I'll have to start over

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