Results 31 to 40 of 50
-
06-02-2012, 10:05 PM #31
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Corcoran, Minnesota
- Posts
- 665
Thanked: 170Thanks to Glen and all the rest of the responders - this is a wealth of great information. Has anyone tried two part poly resin? I use is for brushes, and it hardens in about 6 hours at 100 F. That may be too fast?????
-
06-02-2012, 10:52 PM #32
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209I think that Glen will be able to eventually answer the question about warping...and that will be key. If the wood does not warp then using a thin piece will be processed easier & quicker.
To me, the porosity of the wood & the thickness determines the thinness of the mixture that can be used.
When you use a very weak, porous wood such as spalted woods and burls, you really need complete penetration to provide the necessary strength for thin razor scales. After you have obtained the penetration then you could go back and repeat with a thicker mix.
Regarding your 2 part poly resin........how about thinning the mix with acetone the first time to achieve penetration then repeating with a thicker mix?
Hope this helps
-
06-02-2012, 11:57 PM #33
Don't you want to use Pressure rather than Vaccuum ?
-
06-03-2012, 01:36 AM #34
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209You want to use both, a vacuum to pull out the air & moisture and pull in the solution then pressure to push it in further.
When you use only pressure you trap the air in the wood which prevents the solution from making contact with the wood fibers plus the solution may contain air which would also be forced into the wood.
I realize this explanation is far from perfect but it is what has been written in the various knife forums. I hope it helps to explain this a little bit.
Hope this helps,Last edited by randydance062449; 06-03-2012 at 05:49 AM.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to randydance062449 For This Useful Post:
Logistics (06-03-2012)
-
06-03-2012, 06:47 AM #35
-
06-03-2012, 12:53 PM #36
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Roseville,Kali
- Posts
- 10,432
Thanked: 2027
-
06-03-2012, 02:37 PM #37
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,033
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13247
I actually just placed it inside a Tuperware container when I first pulled the vacuum because of all the warnings I had read about,, Oddly enough, I read about warnings in near ever thread on every forum yet never found a pic or even read about one actually imploding
-
06-04-2012, 12:30 PM #38
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Posts
- 222
Thanked: 30I recognize the light burl...
How you are doing it it basically the same exact method I use. I stopped using the vacuum method only because I wasnt in a rush for the burl. Leaving it sit for a week is just as successful and I already had a lot of burls to use.
I used mason jars with the vauum because of the strenght of the glass - now I use a giant pickle jar. I have not found a better hardener than Minwax...but I havent looked very far past the shelves of Home Depot, Lowes, and the local hobby store. If you find something please share that info.
-
06-04-2012, 02:14 PM #39
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- The North Coast, Ohio
- Posts
- 2,455
Thanked: 146Just a thought, but wouldn't lowering the pressure on the wood in a solution allow the wood pores to expand and allow the solution to penetrate?
-
06-04-2012, 02:21 PM #40
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209That is essentially what we did. The seal on our pressure pot was not perfect so the pressure would drop from 60 psi down to 0 and then we would repressurize. This occurred 2-3 times over the span of a week.
In this application I think an imperfect seal was best.
Just my $.02