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Thread: Wooden Scale Advice
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08-13-2012, 01:29 AM #21
I wouldnt be worried about using unstabalized wood for your first set of custom scales, chances are you will be changing them out when you refine your skills!
Keep us posted!
Eric.
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08-13-2012, 01:30 AM #22
Oh OK that sounds good guys! Question, will a jig saw work for cutting them out?
"When governments fear the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny." Thomas Jefferson
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08-13-2012, 01:54 AM #23
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Thanked: 2Do not use a jig saw. It is not suited for cutting out small pieces and can be quite dangerous depending on the size of the stock. A coping saw is a few dollars and will zip through the rough shape in a couple minutes. It is also easier to control since you can slow down, adjust, etc. Another problem with a jigsaw is that the blade tends to drift out of perpendicular with your board, leaving two asymmetrical pieces when you pull apart the two halves.
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08-13-2012, 01:54 AM #24
Spazzola has a GREAT video if you havent already seen it. Follow those steps and suppliment the tools you dont have for ones you do. Any saw, sander, drill will do..
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08-13-2012, 01:59 AM #25
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08-13-2012, 02:01 AM #26
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Thanked: 2One more thing, after you rough them out, while the halves are still attached, you can quickly fine tune the dimensions with a rasp, then when you are satisfied, move to the sandpaper to refine.
There are so many ways to get things done, but you really can make scales quickly with no power tools. Definitely post some pics when you get them finished.
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08-13-2012, 02:03 AM #27
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08-13-2012, 02:29 AM #28
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08-13-2012, 02:45 AM #29
Parker, I am a wood worker and make my scales almost exclusively from wood. Here is my technique:
1. Cut a slab of your chosen wood from the stock you have at hand. Doesn't matter the thickness as long as it is at least 1/8" think. If you want leeway to position your scales to get the the best grain possible, oversize the width and height. Scales need at a minimum 1" wide and 5 3/4" long. These are absolute minimums, I always oversize mine according to the grain but for me 2" X 7" is my norm.
2. If you have a sander, belt, disc, orbital, or just the plain palm sander, try to get the two sides somewhat flat and somewhat parallel.
3. Next, I use a Stanley miter box (Amazon.com: Stanley 20-800 Contractor Grade Clamping Mitre Box: Home Improvement). It got horrible reviews on Amazon, but I've had mine for years and it does what I need it to do. The blade is only 1/32" wide but with the plastic count on 1/16". I can cut a 1/2" blank into two and loose exactly 1/16" in the process. Both pieces come out perfectly flat. Try that on a band saw! When sawing, I always remember what my Grandfather taught me - let the tool do the work. If you could breath on the saw and make it work, that would be preferable to all the muscle you could ever put into it.
I use a jig I have made to position the slab so as to cut the thickness I want, Again, oversize it. You will need to do sanding no matter what you try but this method substantially minimizes the amount you will have to do. I will be glad to post info on the jig but it is simply two pieces of wood clamped to the miter saw to sandwich the slap into the proper position for cutting.
4. Layout your scales on the thinned slab. Use a jig saw, band saw, scroll saw, coping saw or what have you to cut out the scales. Again, over size the cuts so you can sand down to your lines later.
5. Why cut out the scales first? To minimize the amount of product needed in this step. I use Minwax Wood Hardener. I follow the directions on the can, coating both sides with the product. I have a jig that I set my scales on to coat them but I am looking into a vacuum chamber to penetrate even deeper. As you can see, it is better to coat the smallest object you can to reduce waste of material.
6. Now it is just a matter of sanding to the correct thickness and shape. Hint: Double sided tape on a block of wood to which you attach your blanks at this point makes life much easier for thickness. Use what ever tools are available to you to get the blanks to nearly perfect condition. NOTHING beats hand sanding to finalize the scales.
Hope this is of some assistance.
RandyLast edited by WhiteLion; 08-13-2012 at 03:12 AM. Reason: Typing errors
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to WhiteLion For This Useful Post:
mapleleafalumnus (08-13-2012), Sterm (08-17-2012)
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08-13-2012, 03:37 AM #30
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Thanked: 10BRGriff - look up a vacuum brake bleeder and mason jar. But don't confuse wood hardener with professionally stabilized wood. Very big difference.
-Xander