Thread: Wooden Scale Advice

Originally Posted by Theseus

Stabilizing wood takes quite a bit more of a set up than even the most ardent hobbyist is willing to go. By stabilizing the wood, you are basically changing its very nature from wood to plastic. I think you also need heat to stabilize properly but I'm not sure. You can get somewhat close with homemade set ups, but nothing like professionally stabilized wood.

Actually the wood when stabilized does not become like plastic. If you get to work with stabilized burls, they are just as brittle as before stabilization. The difference is the stabilized wood is water proof rather than harder to break, at least my experience with a bunch of stabilized and unstabilized burls.

And as far as I'm aware, a CA finish will make it just as waterproof correct?

Originally Posted by parkerskouson

And as far as I'm aware, a CA finish will make it just as waterproof correct?

Yes and it also adds to the strength, but it is a PITA to get right, working a set of CA finished Spalted Tamrind right now will link you pics when finished

The difference is the depth of the finish, "Stabilized" is through the wood a "finish" is more on "Top" of the wood, BUT keep in mind that when you are working with wood that is 1/8" minus most all finishes are through the wood

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yes and it also adds to the strength, but it is a PITA to get right, working a set of CA finished Spalted Tamrind right now will link you pics when finished

The difference is the depth of the finish, "Stabilized" is through the wood a "finish" is more on "Top" of the wood, BUT keep in mind that when you are working with wood that is 1/8" minus most all finishes are through the wood

I like the sound of that!

Originally Posted by UKRob

I have a couple of points - why not use a jig saw? Isn't this what they were designed for? Secondly, using a saw if for the rough shape which will them be cleaned up and hand sanded before the two pieces are separated. That way you ensure that the scales are exactly symetrical.

A jig saw is for cutting out shapes, but they become unstable and difficult the smaller the material you are cutting. Plus the tighter the curves, the finer the blade you need, which increases the side to side movement (blade warp). The stock you are cutting is generally the base on which the saw rests, and cutting a 5" x 3/4" piece is a challenge IME. It is overkill, like using a sword to whittle a toothpick. A scroll saw or a band saw, if available, would suffice with the right blade, but putting the stock in a vice and coping out the pattern is fast, more controllable, and most importantly safer than a jig saw.

parkerskouson, please be careful using you jig saw.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Actually the wood when stabilized does not become like plastic. If you get to work with stabilized burls, they are just as brittle as before stabilization. The difference is the stabilized wood is water proof rather than harder to break, at least my experience with a bunch of stabilized and unstabilized burls.

I was just going by my own experiences with stabilized wood, none of which were burls. The ones i used were more like hard plastic than wood, so much so that they tore the hell out of two scroll saw blades.

Trust me, If I had a band saw I would use it! but, I dont have one! A jigsaw will work fine if I cut about 1/4 of an inch away from my outline!

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

I've made scales from Teak, Lignum Vitae, Oak, American Walnut, Welsh Yew which is my favourite...

As SRP's resident late-mediaeval historian, can I just say that I'm very happy to hear the OLD Welsh tradition of working with Yew is still going strong? The longbow and the straight razor: two beautiful and potentially deadly works of art!

Edit: I forgot to say: those are beautiful scales! What did you line them with?

Originally Posted by parkerskouson

Trust me, If I had a band saw I would use it! but, I dont have one! A jigsaw will work fine if I cut about 1/4 of an inch away from my outline!

One quarter inch is going to leave you with a lot of sanding. You have to drill a pilot hole to start cutting. Why not drill a few extra, especially where there are tight bends. The few seconds taken to do that will save you a tone of sanding.

Originally Posted by parkerskouson

OK guys thanks for all of the great information! I'm not gonna worry about stablizing the wood, as I feel there will be 2 pairs or scales after these within the next 4 months. Jamie, those scales are beautiful! Thanks guys, may start the rough shape today!Parker

You do not have to do any vacuum chamber stuff to help protect your scales. The Minwax Wood Hardener I mentioned was designed to be brushed on. Follow the can instructions and you can significantly enhance your scales against water and heat. The product is formulated to seep into the pores. And no, I do not own stock in the company. It's just a good product. I have never tried the Cactus Juice but I would like to. At present, it is just too expensive for me.

All the best with your scales. I'll watch for your post when you finish them.

Randy

Originally Posted by mainaman

Actually the wood when stabilized does not become like plastic. If you get to work with stabilized burls, they are just as brittle as before stabilization. The difference is the stabilized wood is water proof rather than harder to break, at least my experience with a bunch of stabilized and unstabilized burls.

What were you doing with the burls? Scales?