Thread: Wooden scales. Water proofed or stained?

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

Couldn't agree more. Depending on the wood, I have used either CA or 100% tung oil and have had great results with both.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Couldn't agree more. Depending on the wood, I have used either CA or 100% tung oil and have had great results with both.

After reading posts about CA glue I think I'm gonna stay away. Sounds like a long, messy, and difficult process. Although it's probably woth it in the end. But as a wood working Novice the easier my first scales are to make the better. The tung oil sounds like a great idea. Does it water proof the wood or will I need a sealant? I may one day choose to make a CA glue finish but for now looking for something more natural

I mostly use CA on wood that I feel needs strengthening (spalted maple for example which can be very light and soft when untreated and which benefits from the strengthening and hardening effect of the CA). It is a more involved process than tung oil and can involve many payers of application and sanding. But it does give a great finish. If you're a woodworking novice, then it's probably a decent idea to go with the oil.

For info on tung oil, click on the 'Tech' and 'Instr' links on this page: 100% Pure Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools

Good luck!

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

+1 its hard to beat a hand rubbed oil finish. It will bring even plain looking woods to life. A little tip, depending on the wood your working with, some have large pores and an easy way to fill them is to apply th first one or two coats of oil with fine sand paper, 320 or 400 grit. Wipe any excess off across the grain. It will make a slurry and fill the pores nicely.

100% tung is good
Pure boiled linseed oil is too, but takes forever to cure
A good natural mix is boiled linseed oil/beeswax/turpentine in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a good alternative that dries quickly.

Linspeed oil works well too.

Shellac is nice but doesn't like water very much.

Let us know which wood you want to use and we can walk you through it, best finish, etc.

-Xander

Originally Posted by fast14riot

+1 its hard to beat a hand rubbed oil finish. It will bring even plain looking woods to life. A little tip, depending on the wood your working with, some have large pores and an easy way to fill them is to apply th first one or two coats of oil with fine sand paper, 320 or 400 grit. Wipe any excess off across the grain. It will make a slurry and fill the pores nicely.

100% tung is good
Pure boiled linseed oil is too, but takes forever to cure
A good natural mix is boiled linseed oil/beeswax/turpentine in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a good alternative that dries quickly.

Linspeed oil works well too.

Shellac is nice but doesn't like water very much.

Let us know which wood you want to use and we can walk you through it, best finish, etc.

-Xander

Thank you so much. You guys have been a great help. Hopefully I can hit the lumber store today and figure something out. I'm looking for a dark wood, But something that's durable with an awesome grain pattern. Any suggestions?

Bocote or cocobolo maybe? Zebrawood tends to have great grain, but may be lighter than you're seeking.

When you're picking your wood, don't forget that its appearance will change when it has a finish applied. Get a bit of the wood wet to see what it will look like finished.

Happy hunting

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Bocote or cocobolo maybe? Zebrawood tends to have great grain, but may be lighter than you're seeking.

When you're picking your wood, don't forget that its appearance will change when it has a finish applied. Get a bit of the wood wet to see what it will look like finished.

Happy hunting

Just looked up the woods you recommended and I think the cocobolo is the one I'm going to go with. Thank you

Another great option is desert ironwood. I would stay away from burls right now, they can be brittle and have other difficulties when working like inclusions and such. Curly koa is beautiful as well, but a litte pricey.


-Xander

One of the things I've learned in sailing is sealers are generally bad for wood in the long term.

Oils such as linseed with keep liquid water out, but allow vapors in and out, meaning the wood wont get soaked and can breath. Any vapors that get in will easily escape, and any liquids that get in through a poorly treated spot can freely evaporate back out. It's also easier to maintain as you just rub a little more in when it needs it.

Sealers like a lacquer will block liquid and vapor in both directions. Once a break in a lacquer is made, be it through wear, a scratch, the blade rubbing where it rests on the scales or drilling the pin holes, water as a liquid can get into the wood and saturate it, but the vapors can never escape except a small amount through whatever small entry point it had. Over time, which is relevant since razors are meant to last a lifetime, that can ruin wooden scales, especially if a naturally dry wood is used. The more resinous varieties would naturally last longer.

Just my $0.02