Thread: vacuum chamber

I just started a new thread on the "brushmakers alcove" about my vacuum stabilizing system. Give it a look, if you are interested in the process.

So I ordered some commercially Stabilized/Dyed Burl I was pretty happy right up until I worked it down into the scales, I was thinking they felt rather light and rather soft...

On a whim I tossed them in my pressure chamber and drew a vacuum, at 20Hg I had so, many bubbles coming from the wood I had to let up a bit to 15Hg for 1 hour, I went down to 20 Hg for the second hour, and just drew it down to full vacuum at 27Hg for the 3rd hour.. The wood is still sucking finish at a crazy rate, I am rather disappointed that this was supposedly Stabilized already it seemed way to weak structurally for scales IMHO...

I know that it's a little off topic, but it looks like what's advertised isn't what produced. Just like a factory 'Shave Ready' razor isn't really shave ready!

I'm looking forward to hearing how the wood responded in your chamber!

I've thought about purchasing this kind of treated wood, now I'm wondering!

Old saying - "If you want it done right, do it yourself". Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with a vendor. I hope you let him know what your experience was.

I do like the idea of doing the vac treating of the almost finished item. that way you get max penetration if the wood doesn't want to accept the resin and minimum waste.

I'm doing a large job right now in walnut. I purchased a banded lift of planks that had a fair amount of figured stuff, which will be selected out for this job for consistent finishing. It'll yield a bunch of figured razor scales.....

Looking for some advice...
I'm using polyurethane 'straight up' for stabilizing my wood so far - with good results. Always looking for improvement though.

1. Would I get better results if the poly was thinned? If so, with what?
2. What about heating the poly mixture (coffee cup heater sufficient?)?
3. So far have just been air drying, does a toaster oven yield any benefit other than a quicker cure?
4. Is there an ideal finish for stabilized wood? I've been using multiple layers of CA, sanding for low spots, with a final buff for some glossy results. Again, just looking for any better ideas.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by cel

Looking for some advice...
I'm using polyurethane 'straight up' for stabilizing my wood so far - with good results. Always looking for improvement though.

1. Would I get better results if the poly was thinned? If so, with what?
2. What about heating the poly mixture (coffee cup heater sufficient?)?
3. So far have just been air drying, does a toaster oven yield any benefit other than a quicker cure?
4. Is there an ideal finish for stabilized wood? I've been using multiple layers of CA, sanding for low spots, with a final buff for some glossy results. Again, just looking for any better ideas.

Thanks.

Perhaps try this to get the water out of the cells; Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Green Wood Stabilizer - Rockler Woodworking Tools

You guys who've used this stuff to stabilize horn, you think one of these setups would work to impregnate old horn that's delaminating, or has interior voids?

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

You guys who've used this stuff to stabilize horn, you think one of these setups would work to impregnate old horn that's delaminating, or has interior voids?

Have used it on horn,bone,ivory,really did nothing,JME

This might be a really dumb question. But why would you stabilize horn? Were any of the old straight razors with horn scales stabilized? What's the advantage?
I could understand stabilizing antler, but even then I would think sealing the ends would be enough. Just trying to to understand....