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Thread: Thoughts On Badger vs. Boar
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11-03-2009, 02:38 AM #61
I was attempting to seal it using super glue as I would new scales. I use a plastic bag to wipe it on, and the only one at hand was a ziploc. I failed to consider that the white place that you write on would stick to the glue, so I ended up with a huge white mess on my handle.
I did remove the knot though, so now all I need is to pick up a handle at an antique store, and find someone who can put them together since I don't have a drill press.
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11-03-2009, 02:54 AM #62
It was already sealed, but under the sticker. In attempting to do so I removed more of the finish and ruined it. I have since removed the knot, ruining the handle for good. But oh well. I will find something to work.
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11-03-2009, 03:04 AM #63
I suppose I could always find an old brush with a knot about the same size and simply carefully enlarging the whole with a file or something. At the very least that could be an acceptable temporary solution.
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12-26-2009, 11:07 PM #64
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- Aug 2009
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- 679
Thanked: 326I never really bothered to time as to how long it would take for badger or boar to dry out.
I know people mentioned the "water retention" being highly desirable with brushes. I think it's silly because you have to rid the bristles of water. However, I reckon the reason behind this retention argument is that the bristle stay damp and moist. In my experience of using badgers: Simpson Pure and custom silver tip, I prefer boar. I don't fancy the flared tips of badger as it tends to get messy-at least for me.
The largest brush I have in my arsenal is Boreal #977. I don't fancy it much not because of it's lathering abilities but its size with loft at 65mm and its base at 66mm with 28mm knot. This doesn't make it a bad brush. It simply does not work for me.
I've had great experience with Koh-I-Noor #77J, Omega #71278 and #31064. These brushes are mid-size brushes with loft at 56+ range and its base at 53-54. The tips aren't scratchy nor flaccid.
Omega 21047, 40033, 50068 in spite of their sizes are fantastic latherers. Specifically the 21047 for it's mixed badger and boar. Sure these need a break-in period but for the performance it yields for lather beating, it's well worth it.
#40033 is great because it's densely packed and while the base is plastic you needn't worry about damaging handle so you can go to town if you're one of those who beat's his lather.
#50068 the size may fool you but the lathering abilities of this one is surprisingly nice! It comes in both black and white and I opted for both.
I recently picked up a #10275 from Gary and I must admit during the initial use, it lathered as if it'd already been broken in! I can only imagine how this would fare when it's at full potential.
I also picked up my first Semogue from Leon. Since I've an Omega with similar loft on way I'll compare the two when time comes.
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01-12-2010, 11:06 PM #65
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- Jan 2010
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- 3
Thanked: 0Sacrificial Animals
While looking at brushes today one site claim that they do not kill the badger but shave the hairs. Does anyone know the background in the construction of badger brushes? It would make better sense you get a yearly harvest, thus less sacrifice of animal just for the hides.
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01-12-2010, 11:22 PM #66
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- Oct 2009
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- Medina, Ohio
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Thanked: 530I believe that the standard -nowadays- is to not kill the badger, but to shave/pluck... There are two ways to look at this
A. Yay! No animal murder!
B. They said they don't kill it... they never said they don't hurt it... Badgers are vicious and unpredictable, so these brushmaking badgers are probably raised in captivity, then, at plucking/shearing time, tranquilized or sedated, and then stripped nude....
....
It's a vicious cycle, but at least it ain't KFC
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01-12-2010, 11:56 PM #67
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- Jul 2009
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- East Coast USA
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Thanked: 7