Thread: Frameback #3

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

It could be made to work.

But I am not sure it is worth it, and while I am thinking of making some framebacks I would not do this, in a large part because you might have serious rust problems at the joint.

You do realize that many old framebacks were made this way with no rust problems? I have at least two with a screw to hold in the blades. It's a good system. Maybe try one among the others you make?

wow, that is incredible

I want to see it in person

Originally Posted by Philadelph

You do realize that many old framebacks were made this way with no rust problems? I have at least two with a screw to hold in the blades. It's a good system. Maybe try one among the others you make?

The problem is that any gap is going to cause capilary action to draw water into it. So getting one that is ment to be held in place for prolonged periods but not sealed in some fashion would seem like a rust problem waiting to happen.

I suppose you could use something like beeswax to make a temperary seal that would be easily removeable.

The best thing to do is to remove the blade after shaving, dry it and the holder then put the blade back in. That way there is no concern over water being in there to corrode. I have a leverback that I do this to when I use it and it only takes a few seconds.


Bob

Originally Posted by CactusBob

The best thing to do is to remove the blade after shaving, dry it and the holder then put the blade back in. That way there is no concern over water being in there to corrode. I have a leverback that I do this to when I use it and it only takes a few seconds.

Exactly. I have a Jaques Lecoultre 6 razor set with a frame that has the screw at the top. It was meant to switch out the blades so you could always have a sharp one. Anyway, it only takes a second to take the blade out. I usually would leave it out, blow the water out of the reservoir and let it dry for a couple hours. I'm very particular about drying my razors though lol.

I wanted to give an update on this razor. Randy Tuttle sharpened it and tried shaving with it. The blade did not make it through ½ a shave. I thought that it would work better than that.

Still learning

Charlie

Ya, but its still one of my all time favorite razors!

I had really tuned it up before shaving with it and it was a demanding, tough, 12 day growth.
The HRC was not that high as we saw at Mike Blues so I was not that surprised.
Charlie, as i said on the phone, take the blade out and send it back to me. Then I will contact Mike Blue to see if he will work with me on re-heat treating the blade. When you and I visited Mike Blue's shop he had some pretty good suggestions for a process to re-heat treat. Lets see what steel from a hand saw will do! I bet it will be better.

Mike,

I just read http://straightrazorpalace.com/get-t...ogether-4.html about the blade breaking tonight, no sweat at all. I am glad to hear that the blade blanks cut from the same handsaw blade as the original blade achieved RC61. At what temperature did you temper the blades? Do you have an idea what kind of steel the saw blade is made from?

Thanks to you and Randy for helping,

Charlie

It sparks a yellow color but they are short which suggests a high speed type steel. I tempered them at 375F for two hours. The other three segments of saw blade were nice and straight after quenching. The blade section warped a little which is typical for blade sections taken down to a finished dimension. Grinding induces some stresses that even out in the heat and quench cycle.

That's a very lovely razor!