Thread: Frameback #3

Why solder the blade in? Spazolas method is more than adequate. Frankly if I ever get around to making one I will use JB Weld epoxy and possibly pin it for appearances sake. I like that look!

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

... I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

Yes and no. The blue or black tempered shim stock is Rc 45 from the factory. Spazola managed to shave successfully for a few weeks at Rc 50, but it would just feel right to heat it up and quench it to get it a little harder.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Why solder the blade in? Spazolas method is more than adequate. Frankly if I ever get around to making one I will use JB Weld epoxy and possibly pin it for appearances sake. I like that look!

Because it is more in the theam of mad science and steampunk.

My idea was heavily inspired by a webcomic, why should I be rational, that is not what a true madboy would do.

I am bouncing my ideas around to see what people think, I certainly make no claim that they are particularly good ideas.

As for a pure heat/ press fit, I wouldn't do that unless I had very very tight control over the measurements and could be sure no water would get in.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

Yes and no. The blue or black tempered shim stock is Rc 45 from the factory. Spazola managed to shave successfully for a few weeks at Rc 50, but it would just feel right to heat it up and quench it to get it a little harder.

I had no idea at what it was tempered to and am going to have to put this off for at least until janurary so I did not see much benefit in measureing the hardness at work now, instead of later, if I could not get a real answer as to how hard it was.

So I would need to heat treat it in some fashion.

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

Quite possibly, but it is not soft but hardened to a specific level to start with, I am just not sure if it is hard enough or not.

As my coal forge is likely very much wrong for heat treating it, it would mean buying and building a furnace

As for sodering, you could also preheat the frame so you only have to heat up the thin material of the blade.

It should be quite possible to soder a blade in a frame back.

yes i believe it is possible. with the right brass you could cold forge it tightly enough to hold perhaps especially so if you shaped the back in a way to help lock it in place. If you braze it the brass will anneal and probably require some work hardening through cold forging. that will also let you know how good your solder joint is
I thought about using a copper back because i'm used to forging copper and I never like brass color.
a mokume-gane frame would sure look snazzy

I fail to see the distaste for Charlie's epoxy sealer

anybody willing to provide a heat treated blade? Last time I looked at pattern welded stock there were some thin stuff available- can anyone relate a good manufacturer?

I don't mean give away a ht'd blade I'll buy it.

Mr. Blue how goes it with your homemade steel?


Charlie I thought your use of hand sanitizer was simply brilliant

The frame will hold the blade well enough to shave, it pops in with a satisfying snap and stays there. It will hold the blade well enough to hone or to shave with it. The epoxy is not structural it is just a sealant.

The filing is tedious enough without a precision fit. If you were so inclined you could drawfile and lap a thicker blade to an exacting fit. You would probably still get some corrosion due to capillary action. I chose not go this route. A little bit of slop and a sealant works fine for me.
Charlie


Kevint

The hand sanitizer for a dye vehicle works pretty well, I wish I could say it was an original idea.

Charlie

Originally Posted by kevint

yes i believe it is possible. with the right brass you could cold forge it tightly enough to hold perhaps especially so if you shaped the back in a way to help lock it in place. If you braze it the brass will anneal and probably require some work hardening through cold forging. that will also let you know how good your solder joint is
I thought about using a copper back because i'm used to forging copper and I never like brass color.
a mokume-gane frame would sure look snazzy

I fail to see the distaste for Charlie's epoxy sealer

It isn't distaste as such, it is more about keeping the razor metal instead of introducing a plastic sealant.

Originally Posted by spazola

The frame will hold the blade well enough to shave, it pops in with a satisfying snap and stays there. It will hold the blade well enough to hone or to shave with it. The epoxy is not structural it is just a sealant.

The filing is tedious enough without a precision fit. If you were so inclined you could drawfile and lap a thicker blade to an exacting fit. You would probably still get some corrosion due to capillary action. I chose not go this route. A little bit of slop and a sealant works fine for me.

And I think that with a good interfearance fit you could avoid that, but such a fit would be next to impossible with hand tools, and getting it to the needed .0001" tolerances that would be needed to really get a good interfearance fit you need lots of expensive tools.

But if there is no gap there should be no capilary action.

auh oh dissing hand tools ;shame shame

There are ways to achieve the fit you describe with hand tools. Actually I couldn't be sure because I would never bother to measure a hand fit interface other than through direct comparison.

all you really need is a hammer; maybe a little dab of fire