Thread: Frameback #3

I'm speechless.. Amazing work!

Originally Posted by spazola

Chris,

Sorry if I came across as being defensive or snippy.
__________

Here is the link of how I built the razor.

Razor Stuff

Charlie

Cool,

I do wonder about why epoxy and not colapsing the sides of the frame for a strong press fit effect.

Actually, Charlie did both a type of press fit plus epoxy. Along the top edge of the blade he put in some "dimples' and also squeezed almost closed the frame. The blade then "popped" into the frame which had some epoxy in it. It is a strong joint.

I will be posting a thread about Charlies visit to my place tomorrow.

The hammering makes for an interference fit along portions of the blade, it does not make a perfect seal. The epoxy prevents water from wicking between the blade and frame. It is to prevent rust and for sanitary reasons.


Charlie

Originally Posted by spazola

The hammering makes for an interference fit along portions of the blade, it does not make a perfect seal. The epoxy prevents water from wicking between the blade and frame. It is to prevent rust and for sanitary reasons.


Charlie

Well with a good press fit that shouldn't be an issue but getting a nice uniform .0005" interference might not be possible with out many more tools.

So that you have the gap be just that much smaller than the blade(and then the blade needs to have tolerances on that level as well)

Being a bit of a half assed blacksmith, engineer and machinist, I think a lot about these things.

I was also wondering about solder or brazing

I know brazing/silver solder would be too hot. A soft solder w flux could lead to corrosion issues and still the temp would be beyond tempering. And with either of those you still need a gap. With a quick enough torch and heat sink it'd likely work

I wonder if the frame would make a strong enough magnet- Then you could supply disposable blades

Spazola Charlie Your razors are way cool

Originally Posted by kevint

I know brazing/silver solder would be too hot. A soft solder w flux could lead to corrosion issues and still the temp would be beyond tempering. And with either of those you still need a gap. With a quick enough torch and heat sink it'd likely work

I have been thinking on this more(looking at how Spazola made that and reading Girl Genious straight through in the same week put vissions of steampunk razors dancing in my head)

Anyway, I think you might be able to at least prevent the edge from heating up unacceptably by clamping to say 3/4" peices of aluminum onto the blade while sodering.

They should soak up the heat before the edge gets too hot.

I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

I have been thinking on this more(looking at how Spazola made that and reading Girl Genious straight through in the same week put vissions of steampunk razors dancing in my head)

Anyway, I think you might be able to at least prevent the edge from heating up unacceptably by clamping to say 3/4" peices of aluminum onto the blade while sodering.

That is a heat sink

They should soak up the heat before the edge gets too hot. If not sink the blade in a potato or daikon

I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

probably needs HT

Originally Posted by kevint

probably needs HT

Quite possibly, but it is not soft but hardened to a specific level to start with, I am just not sure if it is hard enough or not.

As my coal forge is likely very much wrong for heat treating it, it would mean buying and building a furnace

As for sodering, you could also preheat the frame so you only have to heat up the thin material of the blade.

It should be quite possible to soder a blade in a frame back.

Heat the frame, chill the blade, crowd both together. Frame cools, blade warms, from the crowd, one.