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Thread: working on some biggins
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05-07-2015, 12:51 PM #41
I didn't grind hollow first. It would be tricky to grind in such a way that the step still comes out right. For a simple faux frameback you could so something like this. One issue I can see is that it could perhaps be more difficult to keep a consistent flat grinding surface if you have to grind in an existing hollow grind.
I used a guide that I screwed on to the steel blank to help keep tight grinding lines, and moved the guid against the side of the wheel. It's not something I do often, because it is a pain in the neck to do a good grind like that. It is very time consuming.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
silverloaf (05-07-2015)
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05-07-2015, 01:02 PM #42
great tip! i can see how a guide would make the process go so much smoother, keeping the line more crisp. looking over vintage half rattler grinds my suspicion was that the cutlers hollowed on a large wheel maybe 18-24" first which produces a very near wedge grind, then grinding the step like we discussed. thats the only way i have envisioned myself attempting it but i dont have a very large wheel yet and i think using an 8-10" wheel may result in just enough hollowing to make the next process of grinding that step too "tricky" as you stated. i have one wheel large enough on an old sand stone grind wheel but its far from being true and i need to rebuild the support frame and hook the motor and gearing back up. it actually came with a part that looks like a tractor gearbox of some sort that steps down the speed from the motor to the wheel axle so a 1/2 hp or so motor can get that large wheel spinning no problem! i have used it in the past for truing up near wedges but its been out of service for awhile now. a project perhaps worth working on
Silverloaf