Thread: Air hammer?

I'm not sure I like this last part. I have threaded holes into the hammer head but they aren't very deep, so I am thinking of welding on the top die as well as bolting them on.

I wish I had more space on the hammer for a sliding top die holder arrangement.

How deep are the bolt holes? a little thread locker can do wonders. If you weld I would just tack weld in a few places.

Dave

Maybe 1/2" of thread. Now that they are tapped I don't want to drill further, but I could.

I had to hand-drill the holes because my drill press is too small.

Why not weld the hell out of it?

You might want to change the dies. Did you use a coarse or fine thread?. I find fine threads tend to hold better.

Hmmm. Used course thread.

I could weld on that plate and then weld the die to another plate and bolt them together. Then I would have the satisfaction of welding the snot out of the main die holder plate. What do you think?

Go for it! If it does not work try a different way! :-)

Dave

So how is the Hammer running? Can't wait to see some video!

Slawman

Slow and painful, but almost there. I switched to a pneumatic valve and air switch. Couldn't tell if the solenoid was working and I decided that one system was better than two (air + electric).

I need a few more bits of hose and then I'm ready to test it out.

I made a mount for the air switch that can be repositioned, but to hold it tight I decided to add two set screws. But I busted off the tap in the hole. Grrr. Monday my hose and fitting shop is open.

Btw, does anyone know how much air is leaked from a foot control valve? It seems to bleed some air even when off.

The air hammer is starting to annoy me. Better to spend the time and money with a hammer and anvil... Today is one of three days I have without the kids; yesterday was spent moving stuff into storage.

The hammer is going strange things. At the top of the travel the hammer sticks against the guide, which means the alignment isn't optimal. One fix would involve taking the guide apart and getting it closer to perfect (it's not far off). Another fix would be to rotate the clevis pin 90* so it bends the right way, slightly, but that means drilling two 1/2" holes through a 3.5" round and its guide.

Anyway, does anyone understand pneumatics? The directional valve (switch) seems to become useless if too much pressure is in the hoses. It's like there needs to be somewhere for the air to bleed but there isn't. I don't see any such ability in the Kinyon schematics either.

So the hammer pretends it will work and then quits. I'm trying to post a video but YouTube is crashing my old Mac. Will post something shortly.