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Thread: Air hammer?

  1. #51
    "My words are of iron..."
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    I would not recommend hardened dies, either tup or sow block. Ever seen steel spall?

    If the metal you are hitting is hot, it's softer than even unhardened dies.

  2. #52
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    Haven't witnessed steel spalling but I think I will pass. I may still make a fullering bottom die from 4" of axle cut lengthwise, but I have everything I need to get started (almost), so I think I will focus on building the frame and anvil, then the top support and hammer slide/guide. I think there's some figurin' to come.

  3. #53
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Blue View Post
    I would not recommend hardened dies, either tup or sow block. Ever seen steel spall?

    If the metal you are hitting is hot, it's softer than even unhardened dies.
    That's the reason my cut-off hardy is made from a bit of annealed file.
    It will cut nearly as well, but when the workpiece is cut off and you hit too hard, the hardy gets dented, instead of the hammerhead cut.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  4. #54
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    Got a great deal on fittings today. Love that. It's the little things.

    Also, I think I have determined that I don't need an air pilot valve, and what I have should work. That's at least $100 more bucks I don't need to spend. I think I will splurge and put castors on it ;-)

  5. #55
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    My only worry is that I don't gain any efficiency from an electric control system in terms of air, and will find that my compressor is too small.

    I may also try to bolt the hammer head to the slider in addition to welding it so there's some safety in case my welds fail!

  6. #56
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atchbo View Post
    Got a great deal on fittings today. Love that. It's the little things.

    Also, I think I have determined that I don't need an air pilot valve, and what I have should work. That's at least $100 more bucks I don't need to spend. I think I will splurge and put castors on it ;-)
    Why don't you need the air pilot?

    Are you just using a cylinder?

    Double or single acting?

    What type of switch have you got to initiate it?
    Push button, lever with a detent? Some other type?

    Just a curious student, and his wondering's lol.

    On a side note why not use hydraulics? Much easier to control and more powerful. Is it the money or?

  7. #57
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    The blind may leading the blind...

    It's a simple cylinder that was sold as a tie rod actuator, and I have a solenoid valve with spring return. I bought some cheap electric switches online, and a latching relay in case I wanted to run two switches -one at either end of the hammer's travel rather than one half-way across it.

  8. #58
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    I seem to be a glutton for this kind of punishment. I used to convert Diesel engines to run on vegetable oil, and had to figure out all sorts of fuel hose arrangements, wiring, etc.

  9. #59
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    Most of the air supply problems are overcome with a reservoir of some kind. Running the hammer only on an air compressor requires a big air compressor. A small one can recharge a tank easier while you're waiting for metal to reheat or doing something else. A reservoir gives you air to draw down without overburdening the compressor.

    Watching a small hammer with a small air compressor run out of air is just pitiful. But then I have a hammer that's got a self contained compressor that never runs out of air so I'm spoilt.

  10. #60
    Tumbling down the rabbit hole... Atchbo's Avatar
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    And yes, I'm cheap! This all started as a fun way to shave. Now look what I'm doing!
    jfk742 likes this.

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