Thread: Air hammer?

Interesting. Any suggestions on how to improve?

I do plan to weld an angle iron at 45* to the head support from the vertical member. And I will fill that vertical tube with sand/gravel, but the rest may have to take a thrashing.

I need to get this thing to my friend's place and finish the welding so I can try it out.

Btw, Dave, does this mean you recommend rectangular dies with slightly crowned tops?

I have round cutoffs from a John Deere axle (4140?) that I was going to weld on the tup/hammer, and use rectangular blocks on the bottom, but I have been pondering the dies.

I can shape them easily enough on the belt sander's slack sections.

Having a good foundation in the floor to mount the hammer to is important. You can't just have it bouncing around not bolted to something. I had a 50 Lb Little Giant bolted to 3 elevator counter weights that were mounted with lead anchors to a 4" concrete patio. Mass is your friend. If the hammer is light enough to move around on those wheels, it's to light!A friend & I used to do work shops on tuning up Mechanical hammers."Proper Lubrication" is your friend also !I prefer oil to grease. Grease & scale from forging make a great lapping compound Thar wear a hammer out in a hurry. There are many videos out. Look for the videos from Clifton Ralph. He has forgot more about forging hammers than you & I will ever know.

Dave Huffman

Omg. Maybe I can add a wooden base and sand bags. We'll see. Also, concrete in the feet.

Yes, the dies should be rectangular & the same size. Removable is best. Don't reinvent the wheel. There are many hammer & foundation design's out there.
Slawman

Ok. I haven't bought any plans, and am working this out as I go, based on as much info as I can find and the great videos people have shared on YouTube.

This makes me think I should drill and tap into the underside of the hammer face and have the tup die secured by bolts (rather than have die plates sticking out from the hammer, where they may 'flap off'.

I have been looking at your ram clevis set up & it scares me. I think the hole in the ram should be machined out of the ram material instead of welded to the top of the ram. Also is there is any movement in the pin holding it all together I think you will have alot of wear & breakage due to work hardening. I could be all wrong but I would hate to see you damage your hammer or most important YOU!!

Slawman

I'll have to go slow at first, which should t be hard with my small air compressor.

I also put a steel bushing around that pin, and was hoping to put a thin brass sheet in there if needed.

I should have recorded this project for fun. Today I tried out the hammer with air to see how things line up (still loose). We figure the valve is stuck and only had down stroke. I also need to improve the switching significantly. Maybe I'll replace the valve for a double pilot one and switch to an air switch.

Does anyone have the pneumatic schematic for the 'balanced' Kinyon air hammer?

Either I signed in wrong or something is wrong with IforgeIron, as I'm getting a 'banned' message, but that's the place I believe housed the best schematic I've found.