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  1. #21
    Junior Honemeister Mike_ratliff's Avatar
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    almost have my brick forge carved out, and I'm starting to grind out my other blank so I can (try to) temper 2 razors.
    more pictures to follow...

  2. #22
    Scale Maniac BKratchmer's Avatar
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    Just going to put out there that even if the heat treat and whatnot wrecks this one, you got a LOT of great practice and a really, REALLY impressive blank there!! I could never, EVER do that with a bench grinder....I can't even put an even edge on a Machete.

    I'm LOVING this thread, and can't wait to see/learn/read more!

  3. #23
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    I am too late but did you consider giving the steel that will
    be the cutting edge a good peening before you finish grind it?
    Hot or cold forging can improve the grain of the steel.
    Visit some smithing sites... here is a link to shot peening.

    Shot peening - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    I should note that some modern steel has already been hammered
    and rolled to a point that this is not a requirement.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by niftyshaving View Post

    Hot or cold forging can improve the grain of the steel. .
    false
    hammering a blade will not noticeably change anything but matter of fact will build up stress in the steel (that should be relieved in heat treat anyhow)

    most steel that you get will have been forged in rolling mills down from blocks more then a foot thick (let me know what ta guy with a hammer is doing other then shaping ot his needs)
    the true fixing of grain is in the heat and cycles there of (most of would not need fixing if not over heated in the forging processes )

  5. #25
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Blue View Post
    Mike, there have been an uncountable number of serviceable blades heat treated according to that recipe. Go for it!

    Tempering will be easy. The trick there will be to avoid overshooting the best temperature for the steel you're using.
    ......
    +1

    If you scan this link you will see some bits on
    how important the tempering is along with some
    hints on how to avoid warping in the tempering
    process.

    A Woodworker's Guide to Tool Steel and Heat Treating

    If it is too hard it will chip and or be a bear to hone
    too soft and it will not hold an edge.

    Of interest the arc of a Japanese sword is generated
    in part by warping in the tempering process. Also there is
    a trick done with clay slip on the edge to manage the heating
    and cooling differently than the back....

  6. #26
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    hypefreeblades forums • Index page
    great ppl even if its a bit slow of a forum it cuts the bull crap out of knife making

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to L R Harner For This Useful Post:

    Mike_ratliff (12-31-2009)

  8. #27
    Junior Honemeister Mike_ratliff's Avatar
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    I have read about "packing" the edge on a forged knife blade, but it looks more like it is used to even out the pressure on the edge prior to heat treating...
    Not sure of the necesity or effectiveness of that on straights, but with a ground blade I am certain it would be counterproductive.

  9. #28
    "My words are of iron..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by niftyshaving View Post
    ...Of interest the arc of a Japanese sword is generated in part by warping in the tempering process. ....
    Well, not quite, let's start with this and see what really happens....

    YouTube - Japanese Swordsmith Komiya Kuniharu
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  • #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by L R Harner View Post
    false
    hammering a blade will not noticeably change anything but matter of fact will build up stress in the steel (that should be relieved in heat treat anyhow)

    most steel that you get will have been forged in rolling mills down from blocks more then a foot thick (let me know what ta guy with a hammer is doing other then shaping ot his needs)
    the true fixing of grain is in the heat and cycles there of (most of would not need fixing if not over heated in the forging processes )
    Butch, there is a provable change in grain size from forging techniques. While there has been considerable horse exhaust spread about this process in many different directions, it does, and will refine grain. It would not have persisted as a smithing technique for several hundreds of years if it did not work. Plus work hardening was performed on how many millions of perfectly serviceable copper and bronze blades long before iron and steel came along.

    Tossing out the baby with the bathwater is never a good idea. I do not argue against there being better ways to get the job done, and refine the grain over the whole blade, not just the edge, as you've alluded to with thermal cycling. Perhaps a more efficient smith will use more efficient methods, but it doesn't mean that history is worthless or should be condemned out of hand.

    Mike: "packing" is probably better referred to as finish forging where you're attempting to refine the surface features of a blade while the temperature is falling through the decalescence range of temperature, where, coincidentally, grain formation is at its most active and likely to be best influenced by mechanical reduction. I've met any number of European smiths who were taught to forge everything, so as to leave any grinding or filing to a minimum. Their technique is impressive. It makes my skill with a hammer look childish to be honest.

    But, when I made a blade and they did according to their methods, and I thermal cycled mine and we broke both blades, they were full of all kinds of questions. Like "Show me that again..." There is no doubt in my mind that better techniques will catch the attention of a craftsman everytime.

    Where packing went off course, so to speak, is when folks started explaining it as moving atoms closer together. If that were true, then smithy's should be easier to identify from the residual radiation and cratering....
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  • #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Blue View Post
    Butch, there is a provable change in grain size from forging techniques. While there has been considerable horse exhaust spread about this process in many different directions, it does, and will refine grain. It would not have persisted as a smithing technique for several hundreds of years if it did not work. Plus work hardening was performed on how many millions of perfectly serviceable copper and bronze blades long before iron and steel came along.


    Where packing went off course, so to speak, is when folks started explaining it as moving atoms closer together. If that were true, then smithy's should be easier to identify from the residual radiation and cratering....
    ok so not total but to put copper and bronze i the same kind of work hardening is a bit over the top. let me know how well cold working steel gets you to a usable hardness

    but yes there has been much garbage put out about edge packing but one has to remember that steel is more like working crystals not atoms
    kind of like sugar
    depending on the temp you take sugar to you can make taffy or hard candy called tempering
    all in all the debat will rage on and for the best of it will help get more and more out of the steel we use by making us all try different thing and testign

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