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Thread: Slurry

  1. #51
    alx
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    Glen
    Nice way to put it and thanks for bringing it up.

    @ Euclid440
    If you accept that J-nat slurry is Friable, then yes that would be the conclusion, BUT this is also the issue, just because it might work well for Myself Oz and Zib as seen in just this thread with our very different stones, does NOT mean this is a universal fact..

    @anyone Following
    I have said this so many times 'Synthetic hones are an exact Science, Natural stones are a Romance" you just have to take the time to sweet talk you stone into giving up her secrets..

    We can only tell you what works on ours, you have to put the time in to try it out on yours...


    I feel that there are some factors happening at the microscopic level with natural stones from Japan that we can only guess at. Friability is for certain, and the broken down dust has to settle somewhere and filling in the crevices as dried slurry sounds logical to me. Water has to affect these stones too, or the binders in the stone in some subtle way, especially when you introduce friction. The really hard stones are affected less while the softer stone more so. To me the hard stones are easier to use once you figure them out while the softer stones I have to nuance a bit more. No concusions here, just musings.

    Alex

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    Senior Member semperfi6141's Avatar
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    like the 50's and 60's those were the years of the muscle cars ,so I am sticking to the hard stone muscle stones

  3. #53
    Chasing the Edge WadePatton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    ...or maybe it just floats the blade over the stone more lightly than water does.
    That's my theory (double your money-back guarantee). That (to be more pacific) the drying slurry creates a condition such that the razor's contact with the stone is minimized, but yet honing is continued.

    It's a bit like intentional glazing. I see it as a mechanical means of reducing contact with the stone, which is what reducing pressure does.

    Compounding the two gives as little as practical contact with the honing surface, or the smallest possible scratches. mebbe? fix me where i'm bent.
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  4. #54
    Senior Member Johnus's Avatar
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    Default Slurry

    Going on 1AM so the Science here is hurting my brain. 1. What are you using to make the Slurry. A. A Stand alone Surry stone? B. The diamond hone that you lapped the stone with? C. An actual part of the Stone that your using for the hone?
    The slurry either increase the grit of the stone; keeps it the same but cuts faster; decrease the grit of the stone.
    It all depends on what and how you're making your slurry.
    ( it's the itty bitty pieces of fractured rock crystal that does the cutting. So when you hone you either make these yourself or you help them along with the Slurry)
    It's all explained by that underground atom collider thing that the Swiss have.
    Last edited by Johnus; 02-17-2014 at 04:57 AM.

  5. #55
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WadePatton View Post
    That's my theory (double your money-back guarantee). That (to be more pacific) the drying slurry creates a condition such that the razor's contact with the stone is minimized, but yet honing is continued.

    It's a bit like intentional glazing. I see it as a mechanical means of reducing contact with the stone, which is what reducing pressure does.

    Compounding the two gives as little as practical contact with the honing surface, or the smallest possible scratches. mebbe? fix me where i'm bent.
    Who are you who are so wise in the ways of science ?
    Sounds good to me.
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    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  6. #56
    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    It's way more simple than that: water dissolves the binding media around the grit particulate, leaving more of the particulate. Dry slurry has media and particulates bouncing around, which adds "padding".

    James.
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    Junior Member jester22's Avatar
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    Hey guys, I don't mean to just jump into the middle of this VERY detailed thread with newbie questions, but I need some help from experienced members on slurry stones.

    Right now the only stones I have are Norton 220/1000, 4000/8000 combo stones and a flattening stone. They get my razors into fine shaving form, but from what I have seen on the forum and on youtube is that if you want an incredibly sharp blade that will cut through anything like it was butter, then you want a slurry stone as well.
    I'm trying to look into getting one, but have no idea where to find them. Can anyone give me a referral and a rough price estimate?
    Also, can I use a slurry stone with my Norton stone, or is it best to use it only with a japanese water stone?
    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! :-)

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  9. #58
    Senior Member Vasilis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester22 View Post
    Hey guys, I don't mean to just jump into the middle of this VERY detailed thread with newbie questions, but I need some help from experienced members on slurry stones.

    Right now the only stones I have are Norton 220/1000, 4000/8000 combo stones and a flattening stone. They get my razors into fine shaving form, but from what I have seen on the forum and on youtube is that if you want an incredibly sharp blade that will cut through anything like it was butter, then you want a slurry stone as well.
    I'm trying to look into getting one, but have no idea where to find them. Can anyone give me a referral and a rough price estimate?
    Also, can I use a slurry stone with my Norton stone, or is it best to use it only with a japanese water stone?
    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! :-)
    Slurry is used to speed things up. Cuts faster and leaves a rougher edge. If the above stones you mentioned are all you have, you will not get a better edge.
    For the Japanese stones, the fine ones are very slow, and, the slurry can mellow the edge a bit (the same does not happen with man made stones). That's why slurry is used there.

    And, with man made stones, you don't need a slurry stone, more like a diamond plate. But it will be much more useful as a flattening plate, than a slurry making "diamond nagura"

  10. #59
    Senior Member rickboone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester22 View Post
    Hey guys, I don't mean to just jump into the middle of this VERY detailed thread with newbie questions, but I need some help from experienced members on slurry stones.

    Right now the only stones I have are Norton 220/1000, 4000/8000 combo stones and a flattening stone. They get my razors into fine shaving form, but from what I have seen on the forum and on youtube is that if you want an incredibly sharp blade that will cut through anything like it was butter, then you want a slurry stone as well.
    I'm trying to look into getting one, but have no idea where to find them. Can anyone give me a referral and a rough price estimate?
    Also, can I use a slurry stone with my Norton stone, or is it best to use it only with a japanese water stone?
    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! :-)
    No need to get one for what you have.
    http://ashevillewetshavers.weebly.com/ April 26-27th come to one of the greatest meet ups of wet shavers!

  11. #60
    Junior Member jester22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickboone View Post
    No need to get one for what you have.
    Then would it be a better to simply get a finishing stone?
    Maybe a naniwa 10k or 12k?
    I really want to be able to have a razor that could easily do the HHT.

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