Thread: Slurry

Don't give away all the secrets Glen but while we're at it, 4 or 5 strokes on a dry Jnat is great after 0.5 diamond on felt too. Keeps the sharp & brings on the smooth.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Don't give away all the secrets Glen

Hehehehe Secrets !!! yeah not so much I have posted it at least a dozen times, you probably have too, I heard it from a guy on YouTube that was honing Sushi knives years ago and used it on my Norton 8k when I had nothing else to finish on,, trying to get the most out of that stone, it worked pretty well so I left that arrow in my quiver as a way of pushing certain stones farther sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't

Originally Posted by gssixgun

sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't

Yah, sometimes there's another stone waiting in the wings.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hmmmmmm I think I resemble that remark also,,, Exact same here, let the J-nat slurry go to dry after it is completely worked and broken down, then finish the edge with some super light x strokes ..

I've been doing the same for years. My Naka Maruichi Asagi excells this way.

Originally Posted by Vasilis

It's a YMMV thing. Some love diamond plates, others hate them.
For Jnat experts, Maksim doesn't like them, but Alex is using only diamond plates in his videos. Still, I don't think one of them is right and the other wrong. Listen to their advices, and then, choose for yourself after you tried them.

Vasilis

I look as diamond plates as a tool in and of themselves, and in my videos I am using an Atoma diamond plate solely to create an unadulterated slurry made purely out of the base stone so that I can test the sharpening qualities of the base stone. If I used a progressive set of Mikawa nagura then I would be testing the qualities of the Mikawa stones. I am a firm believer that the grit from a quality awasedo stone is finer then the grit from the Mikawa type stones, so I will recommend the use of a tomonagura made from an awasedo honyama stone as the final grit providing alternate grit source. After that slurry created with the tomonagura has depleated I would recommend the final few strokes of the razor be done on the base stone sans the alternate slurry.

From what I have read on the forums, it seems to come down to a man that after all of the Mikawa progressions are used everyone suggests that the tomonagura will follow and be the last source of alternate grit and that the remainder of that grit on the base stone along with the ground up grit of the base stone is the final grit loose component. A lot of fellows follow with a slurry-less base stone routine with clear water but this is not as universal as the tomonagura usage in their personal routine.

I test shave with all of my Atoma diamond nagura generated edges as in my videos for the stones sake, but these are what I call working mans edges, nothing fancy but just the basic edge that was made up in the minimun number of strokes in just a few minutes. Personally I prefere to shave with an edge created using a tomonagura as the last step, not from a diamond plate, film or sprays.

Originally Posted by alx

Vasilis

I look as diamond plates as a tool in and of themselves, and in my videos I am using an Atoma diamond plate solely to create an unadulterated slurry made purely out of the base stone so that I can test the sharpening qualities of the base stone. If I used a progressive set of Mikawa nagura then I would be testing the qualities of the Mikawa stones. I am a firm believer that the grit from a quality awasedo stone is finer then the grit from the Mikawa type stones, so I will recommend the use of a tomonagura made from an awasedo honyama stone as the final grit providing alternate grit source. After that slurry created with the tomonagura has depleated I would recommend the final few strokes of the razor be done on the base stone sans the alternate slurry.

From what I have read on the forums, it seems to come down to a man that after all of the Mikawa progressions are used everyone suggests that the tomonagura will follow and be the last source of alternate grit and that the remainder of that grit on the base stone along with the ground up grit of the base stone is the final grit loose component. A lot of fellows follow with a slurry-less base stone routine with clear water but this is not as universal as the tomonagura usage in their personal routine.

I test shave with all of my Atoma diamond nagura generated edges as in my videos for the stones sake, but these are what I call working mans edges, nothing fancy but just the basic edge that was made up in the minimun number of strokes in just a few minutes. Personally I prefere to shave with an edge created using a tomonagura as the last step, not from a diamond plate, film or sprays.

Thank you Alex. Your videos helped me a lot in learning how to use a Japanese stone. All that remains is the practice.
And, I find the edges of the fine Japanese stones used with slurry to be perfect. I haven't tried to shave with a few last strokes on plain water, but since my edges pass a nice HHT5 and are very smooth, I'm afraid they will feel sharper, but also harsher. Of course, I shaved with them 5-6 times or so, I have plenty of time to try this way too.
And, thanks for clarifying that you prefer the tomo nagura edge.
But you can use a diamond plate without any ill effects on the stone or the edge, where, other people are strictly against this. That was what I meant.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hehehehe Secrets !!! yeah not so much I have posted it at least a dozen times, you probably have too, I heard it from a guy on YouTube that was honing Sushi knives years ago and used it on my Norton 8k when I had nothing else to finish on,, trying to get the most out of that stone, it worked pretty well so I left that arrow in my quiver as a way of pushing certain stones farther sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't

So what do you think is happening to the slurry when dry?

Is the bevel crushing the already fine slurry finer, as opposed to pushing it around wet?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So what do you think is happening to the slurry when dry?

Is the bevel crushing the already fine slurry finer, as opposed to pushing it around wet?

@ Euclid440
If you accept that J-nat slurry is Friable, then yes that would be the conclusion, BUT this is also the issue, just because it might work well for Myself Oz and Zib as seen in just this thread with our very different stones, does NOT mean this is a universal fact..

@anyone Following
I have said this so many times 'Synthetic hones are an exact Science, Natural stones are a Romance" you just have to take the time to sweet talk you stone into giving up her secrets..

We can only tell you what works on ours, you have to put the time in to try it out on yours...

I think the broken down slurry fills in the canyon sized scratches from the diamond plate making the stone perfectly flat.
...or maybe it just floats the blade over the stone more lightly than water does.