Thread: Nakayama Maruka

I realised my first DMT attempt today had fractured the blade edge. Maybe a foil edge.
So I dragged it on the corner of the stone.
Got out my worn Atoma 1200 . I figured it was useless because its worn in the middle.

Raising a slurry I realised that the lighter blue/grey part of my wacky Naky produces white slurry. The darker blue/black part produces dark brown slurry.
The dark slurry takes over the white when they mix.

Anyway I did 4 dilutions and it appears to be a killer edge but I wont know until I shave in a few days.
I hope the edge works well



Edit:What would happen if I used a diamond plate on a diamond plate? Would the world end?

Originally Posted by JOB15

I've been lead to believe that a mirrored finish is whats best for honing on a Jnat.

The fact that my hone is releasing a lot more slurry with a Nagura , after DMT usage , means that the surface has been roughed up and that cant be good. Or at least I think it cant be good.
When I use a pure white chalk nagura , I expect white slurry not brown slurry.


Maybe the fact that my stone produces dark brown slurry makes these things more obvious?

The fact that your hone releases more slurry with nagura after a DMT is what I described above. No matter how harsh the surface is (or the particles of the surface, or loose particles, they follow the same laws), it has the tendency to return to its original fine, smooth state, with the bigger particles that brake down easily. And, it's not a unique thing on Jnats. It also happens to all naturals and man made stones.
Indeed, I wouldn't suggest to lap it with 36 loose grit and hone right after, but you don't have to keep the surface as smooth as possible always, there is not such a big difference between a 400# mate or a mirror surface on the stone. Unless it's an Arkie, Llyn Idwal or any of these painfully hard stones. Also, keeping a somewhat harsher surface allows the razor to glide more smoothly over the stones, if you have a problem with the suction some stones cause, again, without a difference on their finishing performance.
And, if you prefer to finish on water only, use running water on the final steps of honing, no stray big particles, or autoslurrying will get in your way.



" What would happen if I used a diamond plate on a diamond plate? Would the world end? "

Yup, that's how you travel to different dimensions. But it's one way trip, because they will be damaged, and there will be no way to return.

The effect Vasilis described is a useful one. I have a piece of koma and a couple of tomo naguras that are so hard it helps if I use a regular 1200 Atoma to deglaze them and roughen the surface, otherwise I would not live long enough to raise a slurry!

As far as the finish on the hone goes, my last diamond plate would be a 1200 Atoma. Then I'd use a piece of botan to dress the surface, or a piece of 1500-2000 3M Color Sanding Paper.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

The effect Vasilis described is a useful one. I have a piece of koma and a couple of tomo naguras that are so hard it helps if I use a regular 1200 Atoma to deglaze them and roughen the surface, otherwise I would not live long enough to raise a slurry!

As far as the finish on the hone goes, my last diamond plate would be a 1200 Atoma. Then I'd use a piece of botan to dress the surface, or a piece of 1500-2000 3M Color Sanding Paper.

Cheers, Steve

I never thought of roughing up/de glazing my hard Naguras to get an easy slurry off them. I'll have to re introduce them to my regime for some testing.

After using my worn out 1200 for a slurry I let my Jnat dry and there were quite a lot of scratches mainly on the left hand side.
I defiantly need some thing that leaves no visible scratches. I'll probably keep trying with the DMT card that didn't really scratch.

When I lap my Nakayama (My shobu is redundant) I use the Shapton lapper for a bit then onto the 1200 and then spend an age with a tomo trying to get it smoothed out. Maybe I should look at sand paper?

Originally Posted by JOB15

I never thought of roughing up/de glazing my hard Naguras to get an easy slurry off them. I'll have to re introduce them to my regime for some testing.

After using my worn out 1200 for a slurry I let my Jnat dry and there were quite a lot of scratches mainly on the left hand side.
I defiantly need some thing that leaves no visible scratches. I'll probably keep trying with the DMT card that didn't really scratch.

When I lap my Nakayama (My shobu is redundant) I use the Shapton lapper for a bit then onto the 1200 and then spend an age with a tomo trying to get it smoothed out. Maybe I should look at sand paper?

Reading than on your left hand side appear more scratches, I should mention; it's a good idea to turn around regularly the surface of the stones, 180 degrees, and use evenly distributed, not too much pressure for uniform wear. As for lapping, you can use a fine man made stone (preferably hard too) under running water and rinse repeatedly to polish the surface of the stone. Safer than sandpaper, and less time consuming than nagura stones.

Originally Posted by Steve56

I have a piece of koma and a couple of tomo naguras that are so hard it helps if I use a regular 1200 Atoma to deglaze them and roughen the surface, otherwise I would not live long enough to raise a slurry!
Cheers, Steve

Like ur sense of humor Steve.

Originally Posted by Vasilis

Reading than on your left hand side appear more scratches, I should mention; it's a good idea to turn around regularly the surface of the stones, 180 degrees, and use evenly distributed, not too much pressure for uniform wear. As for lapping, you can use a fine man made stone (preferably hard too) under running water and rinse repeatedly to polish the surface of the stone. Safer than sandpaper, and less time consuming than nagura stones.

That worn 1200 is for tidying up Naguras or for the edges of stones. I have a new 1200 bought just for lapping my Naka . If it ever breaks in enough I can use that for slurries. I also bought a cheap little Arkansas stone for smoothing out Jnats but it dosnt really work. I think next time I lap I will try the Shobu on the Nakayama for smoothing.

Originally Posted by JOB15

Shobu on the Nakayama for smoothing.

This sounds interesting and I'd like to know the results,? Are they of similar hardness or different?

Originally Posted by sstomcat

This sounds interesting and I'd like to know the results,? Are they of similar hardness or different?

They are both 5+
I used to hit the Shobu then the Naka.
You cant go wrong with a decent Shobudani.

I am dying to get back on it but not until I've mastered my Nakayama.

Originally Posted by JOB15

They are both 5+
I used to hit the Shobu then the Naka.
You cant go wrong with a decent Shobudani.

I am dying to get back on it but not until I've mastered my Nakayama.

Yes Shobu,Ozuku, Okudo depending on the strata can be quite comparable, There is also a strong possibility that a good suita from Shobu can be superior to a ubiquitous grey Naka asagi for certain purposes.