Thread: finishing straight razors

Originally Posted by danielpalfrey

Just been checking out my 8k stone which was claimed to be for straight razors but after reading through the info slip with it it claims it is a tool sharpener. So looks like on top of me learning I have the wrong tool for the job.... the reason I ask about mirror finish is because as a beginner I thought the polished or mirror finish edge would aid in a smoother shave as opposed to a slightly shiny silver edge...

A razor is a tool as well. If it is a true 8K without lower grit contaminants lapped truely flat I cannot see why you would not be able to get a keen edge off that hone. I don't think any of the modern day hones in the grit range we use for straights were specifically designed for honing straight razors.

Originally Posted by danielpalfrey

ok, i managed to find a 40x magnifier (misses collects them lmao) i can get a good look at the edge, what exactly am I looking for to say the bevel is set?

A straight edge without microchips.

Originally Posted by Kees

A razor is a tool as well. If it is a true 8K without lower grit contaminants lapped truely flat I cannot see why you would not be able to get a keen edge off that hone. I don't think any of the modern day hones in the grit range we use for straights were specifically designed for honing straight razors.

+1 if I shaved off of my Norton 8k for the rest of my life and knew nothing else I would be a happy man.

OK I will deffo take a look at this tomorow. Hopefully my usb microscope gets here soon. Will be nice to get a proper look at the bevel. As near as I can see you guys were right and the bevel wasn't 100%

Originally Posted by Kees

What's the point of having a mirror finish? Even with a mirror finish you can have mirochips or a wire-edge.
I don't agree with monkeypuzzlebeefeater that 8K is only entry level sharp. Generations of barbers and many members here use coticules as final polishers. I have had great edges off the coticule, just a few round trips on a strop and you have a keen edge.
I personally do not think we should discourage beginners by giving the the idea they need an ultra-sophisticated expensive umpteen K hone to get a good edge.

I think the "8k is entry level for shaving sharp" thing is mostly in regards to synthetic hones. There's no getting around the fact that they cut different than naturals. I think it's safe to say you at least need an 8k synthetic for a comfortable shave, naturals on the other hand are in a league of their own.

Check the thread I linked. There are a lot of good bevel and edge photos.

Post 32, photos 6-8 show a bevel beginning to come together. Post 56 shows a fully set bevel and polished 8k bevels.

Could be you hones, never heard of masterclass stone. If they are too soft they will not work for razors.

Also what did you lap your stones with? Never heard of Norton FX1. Use a diamond plate or 320 wet & dry.

I'm assuming they were referring to the Norton lapping stone.Which does flatten things, but you'll still want to run some wet or dry over the surface to get the scratches from the hone out.

Originally Posted by Marshal

I'm assuming they were referring to the Norton lapping stone.Which does flatten things, but you'll still want to run some wet or dry over the surface to get the scratches from the hone out.

Not really. I use the DMT dia flat on my hones. The scratches on your hone surface don't affect honing in my opinion. Even on naturals sub 320 grit is all I ever do and get to shave ready.

Yes I mean the norton lapping plate. I brought it as titled the norton fx1

Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER

Not really. I use the DMT dia flat on my hones. The scratches on your hone surface don't affect honing in my opinion. Even on naturals sub 320 grit is all I ever do and get to shave ready.

I'm not sure the Norton lapping hone and DMTs are in the same league though. I had a devil of a time getting a useful edge before I started using paper on my hones after the Norton lapping stone. That thing can do a number on a hone, particularly something soft like a Norton 4k. In contrast, most everyone with a DMT plate uses just the plate with no problem honing right off the surface it leaves behind. It might just be me, but I feel like the 320 grit DMT leaves a smoother surface even though the grit rating is roughly the same. I think I'll spring for a DMT plate when I wear out the lapping stone I have now so I can compare the difference. By the way the Norton is starting to dish, it's won't be long until I need a DMT just to resurface that.