Thread: Vermio; The Black, Greek hone

I have achieved a very impressive mirror finish on it surface, yes it took long time but it worth it, as it made the stone perform differently and produce sharper than comfortable edge, also the scratch pattern was much finer under magnification.*


Did you sand or burnish the final finish, like an Ark?

I think that no matter if the stone is burnished - once he rubb the slurry stone on it ,to produce slurry ,only the finnes of the stone matters - the finsh of the stone goes away .
You have to decide ,in casses like this, if you will use the stone with slurry, and use it like that ,or burnishe it and polish the surface ,and use the stone on plain watter, like arkansas stone.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I have achieved a very impressive mirror finish on it surface, yes it took long time but it worth it, as it made the stone perform differently and produce sharper than comfortable edge, also the scratch pattern was much finer under magnification.*


Did you sand or burnish the final finish, like an Ark?

Burnish with a slurry stone of the stone itself

Originally Posted by RusenBG

I think that no matter if the stone is burnished - once he rubb the slurry stone on it ,to produce slurry ,only the finnes of the stone matters - the finsh of the stone goes away .
You have to decide ,in casses like this, if you will use the stone with slurry, and use it like that ,or burnishe it and polish the surface ,and use the stone on plain watter, like arkansas stone.

That isn't really always true on at least some stones if you can get away with using some pressure. The action of the steel on the stone is often a very good burnishing agent itself. Some stones can do both, some it is better to decide to use them one way or the other.

Originally Posted by RusenBG

I think that no matter if the stone is burnished - once he rubb the slurry stone on it ,to produce slurry ,only the finnes of the stone matters - the finsh of the stone goes away .
You have to decide ,in casses like this, if you will use the stone with slurry, and use it like that ,or burnishe it and polish the surface ,and use the stone on plain watter, like arkansas stone.

It makes a difference, a huge difference when you use abrasives to flatten then a finer one to remove scratches you leave a mesh like surface although unnoticeable it is still there, depending on the type of stones that mesh might affect honing by releasing small amount of slurry or it can create a coarser surface.... I am planning to make a video about the importance of hone surface preparation soon.

At any rate just use a heavy knife on the hone after flattening and you are okay to go.

Originally Posted by AljuwaiedAK

It makes a difference, a huge difference when you use abrasives to flatten then a finer one to remove scratches you leave a mesh like surface although unnoticeable it is still there, depending on the type of stones that mesh might affect honing by releasing small amount of slurry or it can create a coarser surface.... I am planning to make a video about the importance of hone surface preparation soon.

At any rate just use a heavy knife on the hone after flattening and you are okay to go.

The easiest way of burnishing the surface of a stone to a mirror like finish, is lap the stone with a fine man made stone, dry. You can also do it with a natural I suppose, but it would take more time. It's the slurry, those loose abrasive particles that don't allow the surface to get burnished, so, lap two nicely flattened stones with each other, dry, remove any dust that is formed between them and it will happen quickly. If you try to do it with a super hard stone like a translucent Arkansas, it will take time, just like if you try to burnish the surface of the translucent itself, so man made stones is a better choice. Steel is another option, the most usual, that does exactly the same thing, but the result is less uniform, and requires more time.

I mean that if a hard stone or burnished with a knife , a chisel or with a barber hone ,or another very fine stone and get polished surface , when you rubb the slurry stone to create slurry , no matter how good you have been polished the surface , this polish goes away
Now it is absolutely necesaire when you lapp it with a SIC grain or DMT plate , after to get a slirry stone or a very well worn DMT plate or a hard or trans ark and to create heavy slurry , till you make the surface smooth and to reach the maximum finess of the stone , by his grain size
IF you continue to polish the surface like a black ark - you will create a finer surface than the stone grit , but this is in the casses you use it with plain watter or oil
If you raise slurry with the slurry stone - you goes automaticaly on the normall natural stone finess of its own grit.
This rule is essential when you use hard stones - the surface finess can be made finer than the gritt of the stone it self
Example take and hard slate 8 K stone and prefinish on slurry - flip the stone on the back side witch is burnished and prepared and polished like barber hone or black ark
And voila - the edge is at least 2 K up from the natural gritt of the whetstone
I whant to share this observations my frends

I just used it out of the box... like these ideas but ot works great and i'm going to keep it that way

I have the Vermio too and it is a Keeper, when I have learned it and another coticule, I will write about them , pics will be abundant.

Our stone experts are Wonderful Gent's and you can trust what they say.

Now I also have a Vermio. Can't wait to test this stone.