Thread: Tsushima "Ocean Blue" 12K

I have only used mine once since my last post but it did the job pretty well again. One thing I would definitely recommend after more time with the stone is a short soak before use. Say 5 minutes or so. I've found that without this, the slurry tends to dry out way too quickly and I have to keep adding drops of water repeatedly.

I've only played with mine twice. As a finisher with medium slurry diluted over time to water it dulled the blade. Under the microscope it looked like it was burnishing the edge instead of sandblasting it. The second time I tried it as a pre-finisher before a proven JNat finisher - wasn't worth the time.

Here are two pictures where I left water on the stone. First picture is with water freshly placed, second picture is 3 hours later:

The water doesn't absorb so much on mine either unless used with a slurry. Then for some reason it dries out really fast unless it gets that soaking.

Interesting thanks guys. Mine should be here tomorrow.

Love playing in the mud

Hi there Guys,

i'm pretty new to this whole honing/stropping thing as i have been using a straight razor with disposable blades for the last couple of years, but a week ago invested in a carbon steel version, which shaves a whole lot nicer i must add

I've been reading this post for the last couple of days and have ordered myself the Ocean Blue Stone along with a couple of other stones and accessories. (See picture)

I am using a Carbon Steel blade from a store in Dubai here called The Art of Shaving. It cost me the best part of $270 so i don't want to ruin it and would like some good advice on the items i have purchased before i use my blade on them. Ive watched a good few videos on YT and I am pretty handy on the tools, so hopefully wont have any trouble.

Could someone have a look at my purchases and kindly tell me if the lower stones (3000/8000 grit, strop and flattening stone) are adequate to use before using the 12k TOB as a polisher.

I just would like some piece of mind from the pros here that i haven't bought garbage.. (bar the TOB ;-) )

Thanks in advance

Solly.

If your 3k and 8k are good hones I have no idea - no experience with that brand. If they are at least legitimately 3k and 8k they should do just fine though.

Sollyt29

I am the one who started this thread on the TOB stone. I since have acquired some other finishing stones that I like as well or better than my Tsushima Ocean Blue, depending upon the razor, but I still use the TOB on some razors.

The problem with natural stones is that every one of them is different, even if they were quarried from the same mine. Likewise, every razor is a little different. The challenge with honing it finding which stone works best with which razors. Some stones do a decent job with any razor. Some razors finish well with a variety of stones. Other razors seem to do best with a specific stone and technique.

Since you are new to honing, one aspect you will need to figure out is whether to hone with tape or without tape. If your new razor was honed with tape, you will either need to continue honing with tape, or reset the bevel without tape.

You can figure out if your razor was honed with tape by using a felt tip marker to mark the bevel of the razor and then do a few light strokes on your finishing hone with no tape. If the stone removes the ink from the entire bevel, then you can continue to hone without tape. If you examine the bevel and the ink has been removed from the part of the bevel closest to the face of the razor, but not along the edge, then you will either need to add one or more layers of electrical tape to the spine.

Personally, I do not like using tape, so I generally reset the bevel without tape unless it is a a quarter hollow or near wedge blade, in which case tape is often needed. However, others hone with tape to protect the spine from hone wear. It is a matter of personal preference. Either method can be used to achieve a shave ready edge.

If a blade was originally honed with tape and you try to touch up the edge without using tape and do not reset the bevel, you may polish the bevel without ever improving the cutting edge of the blade. That is why the felt marker test is helpful.

I have the large Tsushima Ocean blue stone and find it very very similar to my cnat, although the TOB came much better finished, I lapped it on 400 grit WOD sandpaper on a glass plate, I find both stones polish the edge equally well, untill reading these posts I thought they were the same rock (and they may be) mine give similar results. All in all I think its a decent finishing stone for the price and the leather case and the included slurry stone is a nice touch.
Im still refining my honing skill, and want to get a synthetic 12k stone and compare the results. I continue to find this site to be a wealth of information and knowledge......as I tumble further down the rabbit hole!
keep it sharp!

Originally Posted by jeffus

I've only played with mine twice. As a finisher with medium slurry diluted over time to water it dulled the blade. Under the microscope it looked like it was burnishing the edge instead of sandblasting it. The second time I tried it as a pre-finisher before a proven JNat finisher - wasn't worth the time.

Here are two pictures where I left water on the stone. First picture is with water freshly placed, second picture is 3 hours later:

If slurry to clear doesn't yield an improved edge, then I'd revert back to the stone that made the edge better to start.

Aloha!

I have had the little travel hone (with case) from this manufacturer for a while. I bought it in a Fly Fishing store years ago to sharpen knives and hooks in the field. Never thought to use it as a travel hone until recently. Posted it in this thread here;

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...ml#post1762439

Mine is pretty fine. I'd estimate 10k or better. But it's SMALL. 4" x 1.6" x .6". Going to try it as a Barber Hone for travel until I get a Swaty.



I don't think it was "inexpensive" if I recall, but what Fly Fishing gear isn't expensive?

-Zip